UKH

Was in Kyrgyzstan last year and loved it (thank jebus it wasn't planned for this year). Now got the itch to go on another self supported expedition and looking at Tajikistan... it looks even more remote with more potential.
Anyone been and can give some tips? Weather patterns, best markets in Dushanbe, visa/permits etc...

Thanks 

Several times in several areas.

It's very different to Kyrgyzstan. Far less western influence, more regional influence. Like Kyrgyzstan it's split in two halves, though east-west rather than north-south, so most mountain areas you are accessing from the southern and western sides of the Pamir-Tien shan knot work and weather goes with that, including Asian monsoon influence that can affect river heights. Depends totally on where you are and when, the Alay Chu/Fergana has a different weather pattern to the Badakshan side of the country.

Dushanbe is a much nicer city than Bishkek, though rapidly being overhauled. Regarding Dushanbe's markets, perhaps a bit less Chinese/Turkish and more Russian, though Tajik food is less Russian than the culinary purgatory Kyrgyzstan can be, the Persian/Afghan influence is stronger. The western tourism industry is less represented so less of the fake gear you get in Bishkek and Osh. I used gasoline stoves when there so never looked for canisters. Make sure you have everything when you leave Dushanbe as even Khorog is a big step sideways.

The general infrastructure for getting about is less in place than Kyrgyzstan, the country is poorer and more topographically convoluted, but what is there works well though is bumpy. Roads beyond Khorog are being upgraded as they connect more to China so trips out into GBAO are not the ordeal they once were. The Aga Khan funds tourism development programs thru PECTA with home stays and transport which is your best bet for getting around and keeps what little income comes to GBAO in the area.

Visas and permits these days are easy to get and get the GBAO permit with your visa. Dushanbe can be painful for getting bureaucracy done in.

Mountain-wise, the Pamir is significantly less organized and accessible than Kyrgyzstan when you're away from the big ticket areas that have Soviet-style seasonal infrastructure. People live further into the mountains, not unlike Pakistan, with villages up valleys and small roads to them. PECTA is your friend here as local knowledge vital. They may be able to arrange gas canisters even.

Overall, Tajikistan is not straightforward to get to so make sure you have your back end planning in order, especially in the post COVID era. It was disjointed enough before and you cant just pop over into China or Kazakhstan. A friend was needing assistance in Dushanbe a year or so ago and the process of getting out on short notice was harder than most places.

It's a cool place and being somewhat overlooked has been it's advantage. Step carefully with some things as the effects of recent history are everywhere and not far beneath the surface. I keep mentioning the Aga Khan as that's a great organization to approach from and genuinely makes a positive impact, something you don't always see in the ex-Soviet states.

Thanks. a fantastic reply. I've looked (very briefly) at a geological map, and it looks as varied as the UKs. Any general info on rock quality? Or areas to be wary of? Again, referring back to Kyrgyzstan, we encountered terrible choss piles of kitty litter, but I know there are some areas of great quality rock too.

I'm ignorant of Tajikistan's geology at any real level, though anecdotally I'd say it's between what the Tien shan offers in Kyrgyzstan. It's not as bad as kitty litter, but what I've seen in the Central Pamir has been heavily fractured and striated with bands of splintered stuff. Climbable as part of an alpine ascent, but you'd need to pick around for anything for a pure rock route, but it will be there.

The Alay has the famous granite but that's far north and into the area of Caldwell's ordeal fame among the Uzbek enclaves of Kyrgyzstan. Be careful around there. On the Tajik side there's outcrops visible from the road through the border (not sure on it's current status as a crossing, always been hazy). For rock routes I'm sure there'd be stuff around Jirghital, possibly in the granite, probably ice in winter.

Depends what you want to climb I suppose. There's a small expat scene in Dushanbe that has included climbers, cavers and paragliders so an evening in whatever public drinking establishment is currently in favor could turn up beta, or ask about at PECTA.

Oh and I'll qualify here that though PECTA is openly Shia Ismaili and their site goes into it, there's no proselytizing going on. If anything, these are the people to approach about anything on Islam, probably the best example of any working religion I can think of, and it certainly helps to glimpse the world there through their eyes. They have a serious affiliation with the mountains around them in a unique way that's very positive and their hospitality puts the rest of us to shame.