When to go to the alps for first PD-AD routes?

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 highcathedral 16 Dec 2021

I was wondering when is now considered the most likely month for good conditions for easier mountaineering routes in the alps?

I've done an alpine course and got started in Scottish winter couple of years ago, so I'm thinking of going to try out some PD-AD routes.

I've been to Arolla, so I'm considering Saas-Fee or Ecrins as areas to visit; any thoughts much appreciated.

I have read lots about glaciers retreating, old routes becoming less appealing and general alpine conditions changing rapidly even in the past few years due to climate change, so I'd appreciate any up-to-date recommendations for when to go, beyond the fact that clearly the weather naturally changes from year-to-year! 

Cheers

 MG 16 Dec 2021
In reply to highcathedral:

It's a bit hit and miss but August is less reliable than historically because summer heatwaves tend to reduce snow cover a lot, leading to tricky glaciers and rock-fall danger.  I'd suggest early-mid July is as good a bet as any other time.

 RobAJones 16 Dec 2021
In reply to highcathedral:

I've been to Saas Grund several times. Usually kept the cost down by camping and taking virtually all our food. Last couple of times 2018/9 chairlifts we free if you were camping. Usually been their end July into August. Last trip was beginning of July which was quieter but a couple of the huts had only just opened. There is loads to do at the grade you indicate, at lower levels to acclimatise, 4000m peaks in a day from the top of the cable car or from huts. Glacier wise the descent to metro allain from the Allalihorn was no problem, but from the Weismeis to the cable car was much more difficult than in previous years (we nearly missed the last cable car) and would have been really tricky in poor visability. 

 tehmarks 16 Dec 2021
In reply to highcathedral:

I think June is generally a good month to aim for, particularly in the Écrins where the weather tends to be more stable*. I've spent a fair few weeks in the Écrins in June over several years, and only once has it been a washout. The advantage is that, if you're aiming for classic snowy/mixed routes, the snow cover will be better and the snow quality generally better than in the later months, and anything that relies on being glued together to not fall on your head will remain better glued. You also avoid the chaos of the peak peak season (though the popular huts, at least in the Écrins, will still be busy in June from experience. Take bivi kit and sleep gloriously in ignorance of the Spanish 02:00-headtorch-dorm-bagpacking morons and snoring elephants).

* as compared to Chamonix, the other place I've spent time, where June weather can often appear to be determined by random number generator and seems to frequently involve neverending torrential rain.

 pec 16 Dec 2021
In reply to highcathedral:

As others have said, snow conditions will be better earlier in the year than later but there's classic low grade Alpinism to be done throughout the season. Its more a case of assessing each route and how it will be affected by the prevailing conditions.

Some routes will be too dangerous by August whilst others will still be fine and may actually be easier with less snow.

Ideally you want experience and local knowledge to do this but you'll only get that by going. Asking about conditions in the local guides offices would be a useful start though.

BTW Saas Fee/Grund is a great place for what you're after and for a few years now its been the case that the lifts are (mostly) free if you're staying in the valley in paid for accomodation, including camping.

 Earlgreytea 17 Dec 2021
In reply to highcathedral:

April or September

Good conditions, fewer people

8
 Suncream 17 Dec 2021
In reply to Earlgreytea:

September maybe but April is peak ski touring season with a lot of snow high up

 Earlgreytea 17 Dec 2021
In reply to Suncream:

True but late April choose wisely, you can do a lot- trust me. If you are competent, fit and capable.

Remember the weather and conditions change day on day. You don't have to be operating at  4000m

 pec 17 Dec 2021
In reply to Earlgreytea:

> True but late April choose wisely, you can do a lot- trust me. If you are competent, fit and capable.

Recommending April to an Alpine novice is really quite irresponsible. Fewer people around, no trails to follow, lots of deep snow to break trail through, more avalanche risk, huts closed, much less uplift, shorter days, colder temperatures etc etc.

It's really not a good time to be learning how to climb in the Alps.

Post edited at 19:11
 VictorM 18 Dec 2021
In reply to highcathedral:

I love June/early July in the alps. The huts are more or less all open, or about to open. Weather is pretty stable, snow conditions are generally good and the temperatures are not through the roof yet. 

Best of all, especially on weekdays, not that many people about yet. 

April would be way too early I'd say, especially for anything over 3000m. Possibly a good season to do snow routes in the outlying massifs between 2-3k but even that I would treat with all necessary caution. 

 Earlgreytea 18 Dec 2021
In reply to pec:

I am making the assumption the rookie is going with another more experienced person. I'm not suggesting April as a first ever alpine experience. In an April a few seasons ago I met some French Lads, and they let me join their group. 

A good scenerio for first timers when you meet nice people.

Understand?

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 Luke90 18 Dec 2021
In reply to Earlgreytea:

> Understand?

You weren't misunderstood. You made a suggestion that didn't suit the question and people corrected you. Getting patronising after adding caveats that weren't in your original answers isn't a good way to save face.

1
 pec 18 Dec 2021
In reply to Earlgreytea:

> I am making the assumption the rookie is going with another more experienced person. I'm not suggesting April as a first ever alpine experience.

> Understand?

Now you've qualified your answer I understand what you mean but there was nothing in the OP to suggest he was going with a more experienced partner. I'd also imagine if he was, then the experienced partner would have been able to answer his questions and he wouldn't have needed to post on here in the first place.

OP highcathedral 19 Dec 2021

Many thanks for all the suggestions. I will be going with someone with a similar level of alpine experience as myself, which is why I was keen for info on the most likely novice favourable months, so hopefully we can start off 'easier' and gain a base of experience.

Cheers


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