UKH

From one of my posts previous:

Every year I go with a few friends to the Chamonix valley (This year will be the first since Covid). We enjoy some great walks local to the Chamonix area (Barrage d'Émosson, Refuge de la Pierre à Bérard, Mont Lachat, Lac Blanc etc), I've even taken a couple of them Ice climbing in the Grand Canyon on the Mer de Glace. Now they have asked me if it's possible to stay at a hut for a night. 

Someone has mentioned the Torino Hut, now I would be confident enough to walk from The Aig. du Midi to the Torino but is it somewhere to take a small (2 or 3) group early in the season - early June? I would assume the snow bridges would still be in tact (although the lack of Alpine snow this year could impact on that) but would still rope up. There would only be myself with any crevasse rescue training/experience. The scariest section will be the ridge when leaving the Midi.

I will obviously base the final decision on a number of factors, however I just wanted your thoughts on the feasability of the walk.

Could you not just do something like the Couvercle hut? Pretty spectacular walk in with some excitement in the form of ladders, and a fair bit of glacier but without as much crevasse risk.

The Torino is a nice hut, and it will be open by 1st June.  Ive done the walk from Aig du Midi to Torino several times in July (to save money on the lift) and the crevasses are a horrow show. Jumps, crawls over thin bridges, short ice climbs - proper alpine climbing. Difficult route finding and far scarier than the walk down the ridge from the midi. 

I suspect it will be a lot better in June with more snow cover, but with beginners it was be at best unpleasant, and worse quite dangerous. 

The Couvercle hut is well placed, but only opens June 15th. 

The Cosmiques hut is open most of the year, and avoids the crevasse danger+ can take the arete laurence to reach it. 

That's a good shout, however I think it will still be closed when we're there.

Thank you

Is the mer de glace balcony trail navigable? I think some of it maybe got wiped out, but as basically an extension to the couvercle approach it's an excellent route.

To the op: I've not done that particular walk, though I've used the Skyway lift to get to Torino from Chamonix and certainly late in the season seen some fairly crevassed terrain. 

Could you teach crevasse rescue techniques to your group? You could go through rigging a pulley system just using a tree or something as an anchor and dragging each other along the ground in the UK. Then when you're in Cham practice on a sensible bit of glacier.

Remember that if you do the walk to the Torino you'll be on a wet glacier so everyone needs to be confident making an anchor with an axe.

Also consider that if you did go in a crevasse, would your group be able to keep a cool head and pull you out? 

If they physically can't haul you, would they know what to do, e.g. switch to a 5:1 pulley, pad the rope to stop it cutting into the lip etc.

Ultimately it's up to you how comfortable you are with your groups knowledge/ability/experience travelling over glaciers.

Personally my choice for an inexperienced group would probably be something like a night at the albert premier and climb the tete blanche in the morning. It still involves glacier travel, but the easiest route up is only an 'F' and you actually get to summit something. If worried about the crevasse aspect go with Kid Spatulas suggestion. Sitting on the terrace at the couvercle looking out over the mer de glace and leschaux with a beer is a fantastic place to be. By french standards it's a really nice hut too.

​​​

That's all I needed to know!

Given your previous paragraph I would be inclined to agree.

This sounds like a far better option. 

Thank you, Jim

This appears a common answer, too many crevasses by the sounds of it.

I wouldn't feel that confident at teaching cravasse rescue, so I think that's out.

The Albert 1er was my first choice, but I can't find if it's open or not. 

Thank you

Edit: You have given rise to another thought... cabins over to Helbronner then some walking around the Italian side before heading into the Torino, steering clear of anything crevassed.

It was a good few years ago, so possibly not as easy now, but from Helbronner, it's an easy glacier walk to the Aiguille de Toule, with then some easy mixed ground. (F)

This might just be the one that earns me cool points with my pals. haha

Glad to be of service

If you change your mind on the Torino Hut it looks like the Albert Premier is open from June 3rd https://refugealbert1er.ffcam.fr/

That's the day we fly home! Bloody typical!

Thanks though

Edit: This was my first choice as we are based at Montroc so could have walked up from the chalet.

It depends what you want.

There's also the Argentiere hut if you want a proper glacier crossing.  The Albert Premier is a safe option. The Conscrits has a long, spectacular approach.

Or, save up your money and spend a night at the Monte Rosa hut.

I don't think it's open, the 'phrique is certainly closed.

I'm still trying to find opening times, this would be an ideal refuge.

Not considered that, I'll take a look.

Thank you

The Conscrits approach, as mentioned, is a proper day out surrounded in the latter part by some spectacular terrain but avoiding any glacial complications. The hut itself occupies a truly breathtaking situation, and I can heartily recommend a trip up there if you've not been, if it's open.

That's all the better IMO.

We love staying in the old hut when it is nice and quiet up there.

We took the Cherrys across from the Midi in August. Looking down people were jumping across slots just to get to the Cosmique hut and arete. The glaciers almost all the way across were brown.

Also might be worth bearing in mind that the Midi+The Panoramique will cost you €100+

E

An option might be to drive through the MB tunnel, take the Monte Bianco Skyway up to the Torino and do the Petit Flambeau following some crevasse rescue training by the hut?

What about a night at the Albert Prem followed by something very easy like the Tete Blanche or Petit Fourche or possibly even the Aiguille Du Tour by the normal route (which i think is the east face?).

EDIT: just read the other replies and seen the Albert Prem already suggested.

I note someone else mentioned the Albert Premier Hut.  I've been there a few times.  Very nice hut and food though repetative is good as well.  Nice walk in and spectacular twilight views of the ajacent glacier and the Chardonette.  Well worth a visit at about 2550m.  From memory its reasonably priced too.  From there you've got scope for a few easier safe days out.

Note most if not all huts will have winter rooms. Basic but equipped.