UKH

We are planning on going to the Dolomites in August to do an ascent of the Mamorlada via the west ridge. We will be there for 1 week and are planning on doing other/shorter VF's and a high level walk. 

What town/city would you recommend for a base? I was thinking Cortina. I'm also looking for advice on the best guide book to purchase.

Any help would be appreciated

Mark

In reply to skizxi:

The Cicerone books are pretty good, and cortina is where we stayed when we went. Very nice location and lots of pizza close by

In reply to skizxi:

Cortina is a bit on the northern side compared to where you get the yoghurt pots to start the walk into the Marmolada west ride VF.  Corvara is much nearer, with plenty of Via Ferrara on the door stop as a warm up. Plenty of places to eat and drink in Corvara plus an Intersport shop.

Its about an hour drive round (from Corvara) to the parking at the start from memory.  You then get the yoghurt pot lifts up. Then go right from the top of them. The glacier up to the start of the west face VF is fairly tame. We didn’t rope up on that but you’ll want your axe and crampons. The VF cable can be iced up higher up. But it has usually been on the easier section.

At end of VF there’s a snow field up to the hut. Also a snow ridge from hut down to top of rocks down to glacier descent. The rocks have a good VF well maintained cable secured on them for that part of the descent. 

You’ll want crampons, axe and rope for the return down.  Quite a few crevasses on it last time I did the West face VF and descent down the glacier.

In reply to skizxi:

I'm completely biased because I own a business in the valley in which you start but Cortina is a circus compared to other areas. It's OK, but there's just soooo many bloody people there. Alleghe/Val Pettorina, is much better if that's your objective. The west ridge has become a far harder objective now that the Rifugio Pian Fiacconi is closed after an avalanche a couple of years ago. Still, an amazing route... https://wildpettorina.com/sports/via-ferrata/the-west-ridge-of-marmolada/

In reply to Currently Resting:

The yoghurt pots no longer exist! You have to walk up to the no longer open hut...

In reply to beardy mike:

Oh that’s a shame. That was all part of the charm of the approach.

In reply to beardy mike:

Just had a look and that avalanche was last December. Though it might seem two years ago to you!

Coverage of avalanche 

https://www.rainews.it/tgr/trento/articoli/2020/12/tnt-valanga-pian-dei-fia... 

In reply to skizxi:

Sorry to see this about the hut, certainly makes Marmolada a lot more challenging (we did as a family trip a little while ago)

Guido (the incredibly nice hut owner and guardian) is trying to rebuild and reopen in a sustainable way, see https://www.facebook.com/RifugioPianDeiFiacconi/ 

(auto translated) "Snow and rubble. I wonder, why is it to me, who has always fought to defend this mountain from exploitation? Maybe right here is the answer, now I have carte blanche and nothing to lose and I can really put myself in the game. What shall I do now? Everyone expects me to want to rebuild and that's what our society does on a daily basis after every disaster. More concrete, more protection structures, to defend ourselves against an aggressive nature, to dominate the environment, and then more waste to leave for our children... I don't know what I'm going to do yet but I know what I won't do. I will not remake a bigger and stronger shelter, with more concrete to repair it from a bigger avalanche. Nature is a teacher and sending us warning signs. To find a new path I need the help of people who think that we can change the way we live on this Earth"

In reply to skizxi:

Arraba is much closer and is a very pleasant village, Corvara is slightly larger, has a few more options for accommodation and isn't too far away. If you were camping there's a nice looking site at Colfosco, near Corvara. Cortina is a bit out of the way for Marmolada but it's a beautiful town and there's lots of interesting VF near there. If you stayed there you might find you have enough to do and not even get to the Marmolada  

There's a fantastic RockFax climbing guide by James Rushforth that includes a quite a few of the VF highlights, it has really good photos and topos. If you can, I'd get that in addition to the Cicerone guide (by the same author), which is purely VF. Also, go for the Tabacco 1:25K maps, they're very good. The RockFax guide is a bit chunky, you wouldn't to carry it on a long route.

In reply to shaigh:

The Colfosco campsite don’t open the barriers all that early. For an early start to get round to the start on the Marmolada best leave car outside. Last time my club mates had to walk over to Corvara where we were renting a place. Luckily we weren’t on campsite and everyone who wanted to do the west ridge fitted in car we’d rented.

Without the yoghurt pots an even earlier start is warranted to ensure the snow isn’t too soft on descent. We used to time it for the first yoghurt pots of the day. Now of course with the slower approach a night in the summit hut might be justified.

There is the Punta Serrata VF a big day out if the cable car is still running.

Colletes had a place in Arabba. Not sure if they still do. But they did a reasonable price with evening meals included. A bit quiet otherwise. Though excellent for accessing the Trincee VF.

In reply to skizxi:

Canazei or Vigo di Fassa have great access to a number of VF (Marmolada routes, Trincee, Schuster, Possnecker, Rosengarten, M4) with a range of accomodation.

In reply to skizxi: By far the closest places to stay are in Val Pettorina (Malga Ciapela, Sottoguda, Rocca Pietore) or the top of Val di Fassa ( Canazei, Campitelo). Personally I would not stay in Corvara if this is your objective as it’s easily an hours drive, more if the traffic is bad. Arabba is better, but still 30-45 minutes drive. Staying closer means access to the VF Finaziari, VF delle Trincee, you can access stuff at Falzarego and Giau quickly, and prices for accommodation are far lower than Corvara. Being closer will enable you to start slightly later on the day. My place, Casa Alfredino is well located, but there are many others at a good price…