Trekking in Ladakh/Zanskar - request for advice

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 David Rose 07 Mar 2019

I've just booked flights to India for myself, my wife and son, who is 15, for three weeks from 18 July. We'd like to visit one of the northern Himalayan regions that isn't too wet (usually) during the monsoon and trek - maybe with a group, but maybe through our own bespoke trip organised with a local firm.

First off, would it be unwise to consider Kishtwar? It's obviously more heavily glaciated than Ladakh and Zanskar, but is it generally miserable at that time of year? I have been to Ladakh before, and it would be nice to be in some snowy mountains. But maybe that's not possible.

Secondly, would anyone recommend any particular route? I have done some of the Markha Valley and near Stok Kangri before (with a variant because a bridge had washed away). I had thought about Darcha to Padum, but I understand there is now a road for much of the way, which would spoil it. Ideally, it would be nice to go somewhere where there aren't dozens of other parties.

I'm looking for a trek of around 10 days with passes not too much higher than 5,000m, and plenty of time to acclimatise, which is both remote and spectacular. 

    

Post edited at 17:35
 Damo 07 Mar 2019
In reply to David Rose:

Pretty sure Kishtwar will be too wet in July, and the passes in/out of there are not crossed much anymore, despite recent climbing expeditions to the peaks.

You could try Spiti? It's like Ladakh but a bit snowier. There is a main road that goes through it though, so it's becoming popular. But so is Ladakh, more roads and more Indians driving their own cars has changed this area fast.

In reply to David Rose:

Contact Remo Expeditions in Leh. Great local company who supported a trek I did in 2012 to the relatively quiet Nubra valley. Not sure if it has become more popular since but we had a basecamp in an area with 6000m unclimbed peaks.

 alexm198 07 Mar 2019
In reply to richsmithinbristol:

I was in the Zanskar on an expedition this summer supported by Rimo. They were really good. Would definitely recommend them.

 http://www.rimoexpeditions.com/

 mike123 07 Mar 2019
In reply to richsmithinbristol: what he said . But about 2004 . I was going to say much the same. Rimo and Nubra. Lots of possibilites for potrering around 5000- 6000 m  " unclimbed " and relatively straight forward peaks . Easy access from leh  .

 ben b 07 Mar 2019
In reply to David Rose:

We went in to Lakong from the Shingo la side, and out over the Phirtse La side, in the early 90s. There are some straightforward high peaks with minimal glaciation and I suspect the permanent snow patches on the Phirtse La are long gone. Gumburanjon is quite a sight. https://www.flickr.com/photos/jamie8848/9284318354 

I can confirm it's surprisingly easy to walk up a first ascent - ours was 5980m and we didn't have the juice left for a 20m human pyramid

There were a few french trekkers around back then - suspect it is a bit busier now (?). The Rohtang pass tunnel is complete I gather, but not open yet. Assuming the political tensions don't interfere too much I suspect it will be quite a popular trip in years to come.

have a great trip

b

 Mr Fuller 08 Mar 2019
In reply to David Rose:

As above, ask Rimo, based in Leh. They did some of the logistics for an expedition I was on and they were excellent.

OP David Rose 08 Mar 2019
In reply to David Rose:

Does anyone have any more info about the Shingo La trek? Those photos make it look stunning. Is there a road all the way that ruins it, or is it still a good trek?

 L.A. 08 Mar 2019
In reply to David Rose: On the Shingo La -as of last season the road reaches the top but its still very rough This may be useful re road situation ( although its from 2017)  https://project-himalaya.com/2017-zanskar-roads-cycling-trekking.html

Nubra last year was heaving with motorbikes and Indian tourists (and for some reason Thai tour groups ) doing the Hankar Sand Dunes- Pangong Lake trip. Away from the villages it was ok but the resurfacing work and subsequent even longer delays than usual to cross the Khardung La made it feel to me like it had lost all its magic. (Maybe I was just being grumpy ?)

The Markha Trek, Chilling to Nimaling will be busy in July (approx 200 people in Nimaling camp one wet night last July) but from there you could go pretty wild by going Kang Yatze Base Camp / Konka Nongpo La 5080m/ Zalung Karpo La ~5200m/ Dat where you could have a jeep organised to get you back to Leh.

Motup and Yangdu at Rimo are, as everyone says, great. Really helpful and they understand British trekkers needs. For a slightly cheaper agent you could try contacting Nima at Mountain Trails in Leh who are also really efficient. Or, as you're going with your wife you could use http://www.ladakhiwomenstravel.com/  I used them when my wife came over a couple of years ago and they were really great. A very different insight into Ladakh from the usual tourist one but as they only do homestays I suspect wherever you go in July you would find it crowded and busy.

I spoke to Motup at Rimo about Kishtwar last year and he suggested we give it a miss due to security issues.  Lahul and Spiti are, as Damo said, worth a look but there is less tourist infrastructure outside of Manali A jeep from Manali and on to trek from Kibber to Korzok over the Parang La and then jeep out to Leh might just about be doable in your timescale ? 

Or just jeep down to Padum from Leh and do trips to explore the side valleys of Zanskar 

Or go Padum over the Phitse La to Sarchu ( which mostly avoids the road), and jeep out to Manali then onward to Delhi (allow extra days in case the roads washed out by early monsoon)

Hope that helps a bit (or at least adds to the confusion.

Post edited at 10:36
 Damo 08 Mar 2019
In reply to L.A.:

> On the Shingo La -as of last season the road reaches the top but its still very rough

I was up on the Shingo La in June last year. The road is/was almost but not quite through. You could do it in a tractor or monster truck though It was muddy and snowy and awful trekking, though we were just walking up a peak there for acclimatisation for elsewhere. There were Nepali migrant workers walking through from Padum side to get to Manali and go home.

> Nubra last year was heaving with motorbikes and Indian tourists (and for some reason Thai tour groups ) doing the Hankar Sand Dunes- Pangong Lake trip. Away from the villages it was ok but the resurfacing work and subsequent even longer delays than usual to cross the Khardung La made it feel to me like it had lost all its magic. (Maybe I was just being grumpy ?)

I didn't suggest Nubra for this reason, and because I knew others would. The really good stuff is north of there, but still mostly off-limits. And what's wrong with being grumpy? )

> Or just jeep down to Padum from Leh and do trips to explore the side valleys of Zanskar 

Yep. I've scoped possible trips on Google Earth and reckon this would be a good thing to do.

 L.A. 08 Mar 2019
In reply to Damo:  'Shingo La in June last year. though we were just walking up a peak there for acclimatisation for elsewhere' -  Ghangsthang side or Chandra Tal/ Mulkhila way ? (Just being nosy and keeping my eye on things in case I need some pics 

 'Nubra - The really good stuff is north of there' - The East Karakorum Traverse looks amazing if you can afford it or even get the permit, a bit doubtful after recent events   Are you heading out there again this year ?

and yes, always grumpy and intolerant.

OP David Rose 08 Mar 2019
In reply to L.A.:

This one sounds interesting:

 you could go pretty wild by going Kang Yatze Base Camp / Konka Nongpo La 5080m/ Zalung Karpo La ~5200m/ Dat where you could have a jeep organised to get you back to Leh.

Could you tell me a bit more?

 Damo 08 Mar 2019
In reply to L.A.:

Gangstang side. It's a nice looking peak that one. A few nice little peaks around there would make a nice short climbing trip, though crossing the river once you start heading up toward the Shingo La could be troublesome.

I doubt I'll be in India this year, hopefully Pakistan.

 L.A. 09 Mar 2019
In reply to David Rose: Heres a link to a Project Himalaya trip that you could work an itinerary from. I wouldn't worry about doing the Dzo Jongo ascent as its just a walk up a blocky ridge with occasional snow fields although the views over the glacier towards Shaldor and beyond to Zanskar are wonderful.

https://project-himalaya.com/ladakh-markha-trek-wildlife-trekking-peaks-pas...

We got knocked back on those passes last July due to heavy rains as the monsoon came a long way north.

As I said earlier in this thread the Markha and Nimaling will probably be heaving in July -you have been warned  !

OP David Rose 09 Mar 2019
In reply to L.A.:

Thank you.


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