UKH

Tour Ronde- anyone know if the Tour Ronde is still possible, there and back, from the Col d’Entreves? If so, does it require an abseil back onto the glacier and what length would this be?

TIA

Do the lack of replies mean it’s not being done? Any info gratefully received.

These people will be most likely to know the information you want:

https://www.chamoniarde.com/en/la-chamoniarde/contact

I've done the route several times over the years and haven't had to abseil yet, just mixed or rocky scrambling. 

Have fun

Thanks, the OHM will be our first port of call next week. Was just after any early info before we leave. The guidebook seems to suggest in dry conditions, ( and it’s certainly dry at the moment!) it’s still doable but wanted to check.

I guess it depends on the route. I suspect that the north face is out of condition

Just emailed the OHM- they say the ridge is ‘not recommended’ from the Col d’Entreves’

Looking back from the d'entreves there is very heavy rockfall on the east face (col d'entreves side). Personally I would stay clear of it as the scar seems to meet the ridge. During the traverse of d'entreves there was almost constant rockfall from Tour Ronde.

As for the North Face it seems as though the two snow fields are currently not joined by the mixed / ice pitch, this appears to be bear rock. The apron below the couloir was covered in stonewall debris.

We were there 2 weeks ago. 

Thanks- think we’ve abandoned that plan. Probably do the Entreves traverse instead.

Good choice. Read the latest forum with regards to descent. Best to ab down the N side of the final buttress on bolts rather than climb down to the snow at the toe of the ridge. Crossing back across the snow in order to get back to the bergschrund is an awful gravel ice path, terrifying... We didn't find the bolts, obviously, but the abseil is approximately vertically above the high point where the snow ridge on the N side meets the N face of the final buttress. From here descend to the bergshrund which is a jump across, be bold and take ice screws to protect.

Also don't be tempted by the Dent du Geant, the rock falls from that are pretty continuous and some people have been caught out as the snow cover necessary to approach isn't there. 

Climbed the SE ridge with SE ridge start as described in the Cham Rockfax about 3 weeks ago, reversed in descent about 8 hrs return to Helbronner

The SE ridge start has some good climbing for a pitch or two but the finish up the ridge was poor and you would certainly want to avoid the couloir approach, just a loose rubble slope.

The Entreves traverse is much better in my experience 

Great thanks for the info. I’ve seen the Entreves thread, v useful

The standard route on the SE ridge of Tour Ronde now climbs up the snow slope to the right of the Col d'entreves. There are 4 bolted belays on the way and these are used for abseils on the descent (60m single required). This is the slope just right of the Col and not the slope below the Col Freshfield which is further lookers right. These are to avoid the start from the Col d'entreves as described in the rock fax. This start can be done and the climbing is OK but is quite loose in places hence it has been superceded by the (usually) safer alternative. Currently the route described above is very dry leaving the full ridge the only real option, the original Voie normale has seen some of the worst effects of global warming the last few years and is a rubble slope where large rockfalls have occurred regularly all summer. Some of the newer rockfall scars reach the upper ridge and an alternative route might be a good idea  

I realise this has likely been posted elsewhere - For the entreves abseil, once you reach the final small summit where the ridge descends rightwards towards Italy turn left and looking at the lower snow ridge descend 15m or so slightly leftwards down an obvious weakness before moving back down and right to find the anchor hidden from view above a ledge. A 24m abseil lands you on an icy ledge (crampons on at the anchor). Sharp crampons and a couple of screws are useful for descending the lower ridge right now. 

Safe climbing. 

James. 

Brilliant thanks Jsmes.