UKH

News just being reported.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-derbyshire-47387588

https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/rocktalk/tom_ballard_missing_in_nanga_par...

Thanks Ramon thats a much more complete report on that FB site.

Also from Planet Mountain

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/nanga-parbat-still-no-news-...

How very sad for the family. Tom Ballard is reported to be Alison Hargreaves son who also died in the Himalaya in 1995 on K2. And the recent tensions between Pakistan and India are delaying searches. 

I'm not sure if you meant it to sound like that, but Tom Ballard IS Alison Hagreaves' son. Tom has his father's surname. Tom has been relatively low profile but over the last decade has shown himself to be an exceptional climber in numerous disciplines.

Fingers crossed though that this could still have a positive outcome, but as you say really worrying.

No worries, I just wasn't sure if you knew that it was the case.

I remember Alison Hargreaves' death quite clearly, and all the press good and bad that followed. I had seen her briefly in Scotland I guess a bit before the Everest climb with her then very young kids - just recognised her, I was too star-struck to even just go and say hello and wish her best of luck on the upcoming climb! I think it might have even been in the Clachaig, and of course she was also a mum out with her kids, so probably didn't need fan-boys asking for her autograph of something! Hearing about her death seemed so desperately sad back then, even though I was still quite young and way before I had kids. So I really really hope there is a good ending to this story even if it seems bleak now. Not much of a praying-type, but my thoughts are with Tom and Daniele.

The terrible juxtaposition of Alison's death and Tom's disappearance, mother and son, makes this especially poignant.  I feel deeply for Tom's father and sister (I don't want to spread incorrect information, but I believe he has a sister).  Of course, there is still a chance for a positive outcome, but it appears that chance is small. This sport (it feels wrong to even call it that) can bring deep sadness. 

Nanga Parbat in winter is a stellar objective that very few climbers attempt and shows the scale of Tom Ballards ability and ambition. I hope and hope some more that they are in a snow hole somewhere on the mountain waiting out the weather. 

Update from Shamyl who sends us news related to Pakistan. Weather delays rescue.

*Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition Rescue:* The Écureuils took off earlier this morning but unfortunately encountered very bad weather while flying towards Nanga Parbat. They have turned around and are back in Skardu, waiting for the weather to clear up. The mission would be undertaken as soon as the weather clears up. Mother Nature plays her card...

Will keep you posted.

Shamyl.

*Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition Rescue:* The weather cleared up a little bit on Skardu-Nanga Parbat route which has allowed Pakistan Army to drop off the Pakistani rescue team at the BC of Nanga Parbat. The pilots have also conducted a reconnaissance mission to track the whereabouts of Daniele and Tom, but unfortunately they (or their camp) couldn’t be sighted.

Another reconnaissance sortie will take place shortly before the helis return to the base.

Looking at getting rescuers from K2 BC as well.

Will keep you posted.

Shamyl.

As Chris Bonington pointed out on R4 this morning, it might just be that the lack of communication is down to their phone batteries failing in the cold.  Let's hope so.

*Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition Rescue:*  Pakistan Army Aviation is conducting another reconnaissance mission on Nanga Parbat and the last known camp site (Camp 3 at 6300m) has been visually identified and sighted by the helis.

The formation is trying to locate the stranded climbers at the moment as the search has been stepped up.

Will keep you posted.

Shamyl.

Very sad news and I really hope they are located and safe.. There is some up to date info being posted on Daniele Nardi's Fb Page.

https://www.facebook.com/danielenardialpinista/

^ The helicopter was able to spot a snow-covered tent at camp 3 (5700m) - their last confirmed position was at 6300m on Sunday 24/02.

Weather conditions are okay, and the Russian team attempting K2 should be flown as close as possible to camp 3 tomorrow.

(All information from Daniele's FB page)

Planet Mountain this morning ( 1st Feb) report...

According to the official Fb page of Daniele Nardi, this morning the rescue operation program consists of flying to K2 Base Camp to pick up the mountaineer Alex Txikon who "with 3 of his team, including a doctor, will be transported from K2 base camp to Nanga Parbat Base Camp and subsequently to a position closer to the Diamir face, closer to Camp 1. From there Txikon will use three powerful drones designed for long high altitude flights and he will search the entire area around the Mummery Rib, up to the plateau above and along all hypothetical lines that the climbers may have taken.” The Italian Embassy in Islamabad with the support of the Pakistani Army "is working on receiving permits for the helicopters to take off”, seeing that the area is still subject to the recent violent tensions between India and Pakistan.

The Russian alpinists on K2 who yesterday had offered to search by land, in agreement with the rescue organisation, have instead decided to renounce “due to the high risk of avalanches on Nanga Parbat".

Full report on here

https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/nanga-parbat-still-no-conta...

Facebook translation of the latest message on Daniele's FB page, posted half an hour ago:

No flight today to pick up Txikon team @K2 BC 

This morning the helicopter, after having permission to fly, could not fly because the private agency askari, who manages the flights of the pakistani army helicopters, requested the advance payment of the important sum needed for staff transfers from the K2 Base Camp at the base camp of the nanga parbat. Askari, unfortunately accepts only advance payments and the deposit left by mountaineers has exhausted with yesterday's operations.

Daniele Nardi's family made immediately available to payment of the entire amount needed, but technical and bureaucratic times have indeed prevented it from being able to do it in a few hours.

Italy, through ambassador Stefano Pontecorvo, has therefore provided concretely and directly to manage payments with Pakistani aviation than askari requested for the flight of helicopters pending insurance refunds.

Unfortunately, the weather has worsened and Alex Txikon's recovery operation from the k2 base camp will have to be done tomorrow morning.

In the while, Ali Sadpara, with the other two Pakistani Mountaineers, left this morning walking from the base camp of the nanga parbat and arrived near field 1. Now is back to the base camp.

From Shamyl today:

*Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition Rescue:*  

Low clouds on Baltoro route to K2 Base Camp and thus no flight operations were possible today.

Another attempt would be made tomorrow to pick up Alex Txikon’s rescue team from K2 BC and to drop them off at Nanga Parbat.

An avalanche was spotted on Mummery ridge last evening as well unfortunately.

The rescue mission would resume tomorrow.

Will keep you posted.

Shamyl.

--------------

Shamyl, in response to the latest (above in my last comment) post on Daniele Nardi's Facebook page:

This post was put up on Daniele Nardi’s Facebook account today regarding the rescue operation being conducted on Nanga Parbat to locate Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard.

I’d like to take the opportunity to present some facts and on-ground realities to avoid any misunderstandings regarding this rescue mission and set the record straight:

1) There were low clouds on Baltoro route all day long today which made any flying to K2 impossible. The pilot would NOT have flown in this weather to avoid any dangerous white-out conditions.

2) Pakistan is in a state of war with India with all airspace closed for traffic (following aerial combat with Indian jets on Line of Control). A special permission from higher authorities was required to fly a mission today. Pakistan Army was gracious enough to give this permission on humanitarian grounds for this mission. One has to take into account that the helicopters would be approaching the Line of Control in order to get to K2 Base Camp.

3) As far as Pakistan Army Aviation is concerned the mission would take place.

4) Pakistan Army Aviation ran a mission of around 10hours flying time yesterday alone to look for Daniele and Tom. They did this despite Pakistani airspace being no-fly zone because of airspace closure.

5) Regarding Askari Aviation, it has to be kept in mind that the rules of rescue missions in Pakistan have to be followed and respected. Since Askari doesn’t deal with insurance companies, they require some form of guarantee to make sure that they get paid. This payment issue did not have any consequence on the rescue mission today.

6) The mission to pick up climbers from K2 Base Camp would take place tomorrow, weather permitting.

Thank you,
Shamyl.

*Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition Rescue:* Following an improvement in weather conditions on Baltoro route, the helis are on their way to pick up rescue climbers from K2.

Hoping for a successful completion of the mission.

Will keep you posted,
Shamyl.

*Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition Rescue:* Very unfortunate news. Due to heavy snowfall short of Nanga Parbat, Pakistan Army Aviation formation could not be drop the four Spanish rescuers at Nanga Parbat. Given the weather situation and security risks involved, the pilots decided to land at Jaglot and have now decided to return to Skardu. The Nanga Parbat drop off would be executed tomorrow morning now, weather permitting.

Will keep you posted,
Shamyl.

*Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition Rescue:* Confirming two Écureuil B3s with Spanish rescue team on board have just taken off from Skardu on their way to Jaglot in tough weather conditions. 

Will keep you posted,
Shamyl.

Apparently the search/rescue team have now managed to land at Camp 1 with the intention of using drones to help search.

https://twitter.com/DarioDesnivel/status/1102489294004994050

From a few hours ago:

*Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition Rescue:* Two Écureuil B3s of Pakistan Army Aviation took off from Skardu AAB at 1104hrs PST in difficult weather conditions around Skardu. Fortunately the weather was much better outside the Skardu Valley. The formation passed by Jaglot before heading to Nanga Parbat. Weather had turned for good by that time in that area. 

Arriving at Nanga Parbat, the two Écureuils climbed to Camp-I and spent 10 minutes up there to reconnoiter a landing spot at Camp-I. The formation then landed at Base Camp dropping off the Spanish rescuers. The two helis then took Alex Txikon and Rehmat Ullah Baig from the Base Camp and climbed back up to Camp-I. Since Rehmat was with Daniele and Tom during the initial phase of the expedition, he was able to point out the exact route on the Mummery Spur to Alex and the pilots. The formation then started an aerial reconnaissance with Alex on board and searched the area for around 50 minutes. They went up to 7100m before climbing down to Camp-I. Unfortunately no sign of climbers or a camp site was found during the aerial reconnaissance. The formation then dropped off Alex Txikon on Camp-I and returned to Base Camp before heading back to the base. 

Ali Sadpara has climbed up to Camp-I to join up with Alex Txikon. Alex Txikon has a drone with him which he intends to reconnoiter the area to locate Daniele and Tom.

Will keep you posted,
Shamyl.

*SITREP ALEX TXIKON:*

[04/03, 2:44 pm]: 1st Alex Txikon report from his sat phone: We arrived at the camp we are fixing on the plateaux between camp 1 and 2 at 4850m. Wonderful weather. Very warm and avalanches' danger increases. With helicopter we did a recon very close to the mountain, along Kinshofer route and then on Mummery Spur and the area of the glacier between camp 3 and our landing point. We reached an approximative altitude of 7100m. Unfortunately no traces of our friends. Ignacio, who is climber and engineer is preparing the drones to search carefully the traces and the trajectory of fall. Each possibility will be explored.

 Alex is going towards camp 2 with another climber.

*Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition Rescue:* Rescue operation for Daniele and Tom has resumed this morning on Nanga Parbat. The rescue team left the Base Camp early this morning to get to Camp-II. A team consisting of Alix Txikon, Ali Sadpara, Felix Criado morning and Rahmat Ullah Baig intends to reach Camp-III today. A drone is being used as well by to reconnoiter the area and look for the climbers. 

The weather is good on Nanga Parbat.

Will keep you posted,
Shamyl.

*Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition Rescue:* The rescue team led by Alex Txikon searched the Mummery Spur from Camp-I to Camp-III to locate Daniele Nardi and Tom Ballard today. Unfortunately no sign of climbers was found. It is said that a drone operated by Ignacio de Zuloaga was extensively used as well to facilitate the search mission but couldn’t be of much assistance.

On the south-eastern side of Mummery Spur, we are observing intermittent avalanches. Given the change in weather (warmer temperature), the probability of avalanches is getting higher. All ground search is being undertaken on the Mummery Spur, but avalanche risk is increasing every day.

Given the features of the ridge as well as avalanche risks associated, a small miracle is now required to find the missing climbers alive even though optimism still runs high.

The rescue team is descending now and the search would carry on tomorrow.

Will keep you posted,
Shamyl.

*Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition Rescue:* The rescue team led by Alex Txikon searched the Mummery Spur this morning and managed to get up to Camp-II. Although the idea was to get up to Camp-III, the plan was dropped given the very low temperature and a very high risk of avalanches. The rescue team thus stayed at Camp-II and reportedly used drones to facilitate the search; however no sign of climbers was detected. 

Given the conditions over Camp-II, it was decided to descend to the Base Camp and the team safely reached the BC this afternoon.

It has been decided by the search team to explore the Kinshofer route (left to the Mummery Spur) tomorrow morning. The Kinshofer route is equipped with ropes fixed to the wall and could have been potentially chosen by Daniele and Tom to descend.

The hope remains.

Will keep you posted,
Shamyl.

*Nanga Parbat Winter Expedition Rescue:* It had been decided by the search team to explore the Kinshofer route (left to the Mummery Spur) this morning. The Kinshofer route is equipped with ropes fixed to the wall and could have been potentially chosen by Daniele and Tom to descend. The rescue team led by Alex Txikon searched the Kinshofer route this morning; however no sign of climbers was detected. 

The search team has now returned back to Base Camp.

The search operation is looking more and more complicated by each passing day; especially with the avalanche situation.

Will keep you posted,
Shamyl.

I'm afraid there's sad news on the BBC website, just posted.

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-derbyshire-47470232

Ambition, yes. Simone Moro had some fairly blunt but pertinent words on this. 

https://www.thetimes.co.uk/article/partner-of-lost-climber-tom-ballard-was-...

RIP them both.

Might be pertinent, but of respect for Kate and Jim, it would be better not to make judgement comments at this time. My condolences to the family, it's a terrible loss.

Very sad news. My thoughts go out to their family and friends.

Oh dear desperately sad news. Sincere condolences to all of Tom and Daniele's family, friends and loved ones.

I've been following the winter attempt on Nanga (along with the K2 attempts) since they started to make their way out there. 

I was checking every few days for updates. The last update I remember before there not being any updates for a while was when an avalanche wiped out one of Daniele and Tom's camps they had set up (along with supplies). I believe it was camp 2? At that time there was some thought that they would wave the white flag and go home. I actually thought they had done so since the updates ceased.

Then over a week went by without me checking. This must have been near the time of their last contact. Then I check yesterday -- and was stunned to see that they had been missing since the 24th of February. I was shocked, even though I really shouldn't be, because they were attempting one of the more dangerous peaks on earth and in the most treacherous season. It's still surreal to me however. 

And on another note -- Elisabeth Revol. She lost a climbing partner (as I'm sure all of you know) back in early 2018 on Nanga Parbat (Tomek Mackiewicz), and now another former climbing partner on the same mountain in Daniele Nardi. She had been on Nanga with him prior -- there's a youtube video on their attempt from a few years ago. Sheesh. 

Very sad news

Sad news, RIP.

I only met Tom on two occasions , once when he was in nappies,  the latest in Glen Nevis in May 2008 when he was being belayed by Jim.  I got the impression of a capable but predominantly extremely focussed climber.

Jim was as talkative as ever and Tom  opened up after a few hours of banter between Jim Ted Peter and myself over a couple of days in a fortunately breezy glen.  Tom spent most of the time preparing new routes which he demolished when he could stop Jim chatting away so he could belay.

I find this news expecially sad, and I'd like to join in in wishing the best for the family and friends of both climbers. Tom in particular seemed liked an unusually pure expression of climbing animus.

There's no doubt that the route they were attempting had high objective risk, and Daniele Nardi in particular was well placed to know this. Simone Moro's words hit the mark, I think: https://www.desnivel.com/expediciones/simone-moro-sobre-la-ruta-que-intenta....

There were something wonderfully British about Tom Ballard's 2014/15 first - Soloing all the classic alpine north faces in a single season, and doing so whilst maintaining such a comparatively low profile.  I didn't know him, but I can only imagine from that remarkable contrast that he was a modest man.  

"Better to live one day as a tiger"  

I can't help but be inspired by the commitment and boldness shown by Tom and Daniele.  I might try and live a bit more like that, even if I won't be applying it as uncompromisingly to my climbing.

Tom's north face solos were the first to be done in a single season in winter (as I'm sure you know, but just in case any other readers of this thread don't). The first to do them all in a single season in summer was his mum, who completed the round while pregnant with Tom if I remember correctly, and if anything in even lower profile. A remarkable pair of humans.

Not intending to diminish either Tom or Allison's achievements, but to put the record straight.

Pete Holden was the first to climb( roped) all six classic north face routes in summer 1970 or 71. 

Allison soloed all six faces c 1993 but not all by rebufatts defined routes.

Tom soloed all six defined routes.

Desperately sad news. My sincerest condolences to family, friends and partners.

From Daniele Nardi Facebook 

“Alex tells us that yesterday from the base camp identified two silhouettes on the mountain; from this morning at Dawn, they are operating to make thorough observations of the wall
On the arrival of helicopters, scheduled soon, a exploration will be started along the via mummery for the close evaluation of some images of the telescope.
Thanks to all those who are actively participating in the research of daniele and Tom first of all the mountaineers committed to nanga parbat and an infinite thank you goes to all of you who are supporting us with aid and much affection.”

Worth another search, for sure, but sounds like a case of finding faces on Mars. It would be very odd if the two were up and active and yet still up there despite the days of good weather.

It's a closure thing at this point, I think. I don't even know if it's a body recovery situation -- would they actually attempt to bring them down the mountain if those 2 silhouettes are theirs? We all know how exceedingly difficult it is to make it up on your own on this monster of a mountain in the best of weather, let alone in the harshest season -- and now add into that bringing two bodies down Nanga Parbat? I don't know, man. Seems pretty unlikely to me. 

And I hate to say it but there's just no way that they're still "active" up there. Their last contact was what, 12 days ago now? It's a very tragic situation obviously but unfortunately this just comes with the territory. Climbing any mountain can end in tragedy, but climbing in the Himalayas on one of the world's most treacherous mountains in winter...there's a very real chance you may not come back down the mountain alive. It's just part of the reality of climbing a mountain like Nanga Parbat in winter. Nanga is on just about every short list of world's most treacherous climbs, and that's in "optimal" weather. 

By choosing the Lauper Route (or a variation of it) on The Eiger, it is actually highly debatable whether she soloed all six defined faces.

I think she did the Shroud rather than the Walker.

Still a very good effort, 1993 was a crap season, at least it was the month I was there, did mostly sub alpine rock.

Yes, but went back and did The Croz in November of the same year.

Not trying to be pedantic but I recall it was a line to the right of the classic Croz route. Yugoslavian ?

Having achieved some sponsorship from the summer campaign, had some helicopter help to the foot and off the route.  Just like the local heroes

Edit, not sure this is really the time or place to discuss these details, Robert.

I quite agree, and yet that is exactly what taking 'silhouettes' seriously would have to imply (a curled-up mountaineer casts a rock-shaped shadow, and not a 'silhouette').

And I'm not even convinced it helps closure. If the search doesn't turn up any bodies, then this false alarm only served to get hopes up in people who may have been on their way to beginning a process of grieving, starting with accepting that their loved one is dead. Tom's girlfriend had already got that far, by all accounts.

Jonny, I think you're basing your comments on a specific interpretation of the word silhouette, and missing the forest for the trees, as well as coming off as pedantic.  Just think how many times this may have been translated.  The important thing is, the rescuers saw something--shapes, outlines, black spots, whatever--that they judge deserved a further look.  It doesn't matter that it might just be some rocks.   It doesn't matter that there is essentially no chance left to find them alive.  The rescuers, who surely know all of what is involved on a practical, technical, emotional, and personal level think it deserves inspection--power to them, for God's sake.  If it was my loved ones missing on the mountains, I would certainly appreciate the attempt, even if it meant a temporary renewal of my hopes.  And if they do find remains, whether of not they are recovered, I would certainly absolutely appreciate the closure.  Try to see the big picture here, don't argue about the word silhouette. 

I'm not trying to be pedantic, and I'm certainly not 'arguing about the word silhouette'. Sorry if it came across that way.

Not everyone's opinions align on how long the search should go on. Tom's girlfriend's don't align with Txikon's, for example. And that's fine and normal, given the circumstances and the profundity of death. The point is there's a debate to be had, and it's not a case of 'the rescuers are right because they have a lot of experience'. I don't doubt that the families appreciate the efforts - they're the ones organising the funds, after all. Those helicopters aren't cheap, at 50,000 pounds a day, and there comes a point at which that money would be better spent elsewhere. 'Never give up hope' is a particular kind of modern attitude. Many people, and indeed many specific cultures, don't see things that way, and I think they end up with a more healthy perspective on death as a result. 

Fair enough, Jonny.  The problem with accusing others of being pedantic is that you often come off sounding pedantic yourself--my apologies if that was the case.  Anyway, you make good points.  Like you said, there's a debate to be had, or, perhaps, there is no right or wrong to be determined through debate, there's just a complicated human situation, with many different perspectives. 

Sad news. And very poignant to watch again a film I purchased about Tom a few years back that documented his ascents of the north faces in the Alps.

This is the trailer -  vimeo.com/136931177

Not a bother. It absolutely is a complex human situation and any debate is not of the sort that leads to 'right' answers. Above all, I certainly don't doubt the good intentions of all those involved, especially those of Txikon and his team.

Reports coming now that their bodies have been found ...