UKH

Hello,

I have been given most of October off of work. I had a few places in mind Zermatt/Saas Fee, the Bernina Massif, Gran Paradiso or maybe even the Jungfrau region.

What are the conditions like higher up in October? Is it still possible to climb, is it still safe or is the weather more unpredictable? Will it be much colder?

I've done a search on the forums, but most of the information is a little outdated (8-14 years old). 

Many thanks,

I haven’t climbed then but note the huts won’t be manned and there won’t be much daylight. Fresh snow could be a problem too, I would expect. However, you’ll have the peaks to yourself!

Done a couple of trips in October, first in Chamonix, brilliant weather and conditions, quiet sunny climbing on midi south face and brilliant ice on the Tacul. Another mixed weather in Switzerland bailing off the Dent Blanche due to high wind. 

As is always the case you can't predict the weather, but if it's good there's always something to climb.

Is that the Derbyshire Peaks?

Joe

Damn, I hadn't even thought about that. I just did a quick search and most of the huts seem to close in September. I guess that means the cablecars will be closed too. 

I think nearly all huts have winter rooms which aren’t locked. Still a bit harder than summer but doable with some planning. And your acclimatisation will be thorough....

Yes there will be bunks and blankets. And they will be free/cheap!

Hi there,  my partner and I are planning an October trip to the Alps as well.  As far as I understand things (I'm still doing research) the major lifts in Cham will be operational but not as regularly as the summer timetable and with earlier last lifts.  Huts are generally unguarded from the end of september but will have their winter rooms available so bringing all food and cooking gear along will be essential. 

Much of the talk I have heard is that there is generally colder but more stable weather in the mountains in October vs the sometimes stormy active weather systems of high summer.  Some faces come into good condition due to the colder temps and added snow.  We're hoping to climb some good mixed lines (with the major goal being the Schmid route on the matterhorn) but are up for anything that conditions and weather will allow us.   

in Cham the Midi should be open to the top but the rest shut after i think its around 10 sept but i could be mistaken on that date, plus montenver might be a little later

I think that the Couvercle hut, for example, has the old hut under the slab open, but not the summer, usual hut.

Possibly you could email the Chamonix Guides just now, whilst they're still somewhat working.

Both the Montenvers train and the midi are open through October (according to CdMB timetables).  The Flegere/index chairlift also opens for the last two weeks of October apparently.  

- 

Now you have me wondering if I could consider going to Chamonix in October....

BUT with everywhere getting more confirmation of Corona virus infections, and France still being a return quarantine destination, will it be practical/feasible???

Yes we're also concerned about the covid landscape but will go 'for a look' unless lockdown starts up again.  We're probably going to drive over rather than fly and just be ultra-flexible with our plans.

Depends on the weather. If there are some storms in late Sept / Oct, that can build the faces up nicely. If it’s dry, there will be bugger all mixed potentially. You just don’t know these days...

I’ve never been at that time of year. Have tended to opt for March / early April as at that time skiing / ski touring is always a fallback if climbing isn’t in. Also ski in/out approaches make life easy. Having said that, the fact that October doesn’t have enough snow for ski in/out actually makes some logistically routes easier. Anything up and over is easier if you can walk off, so stuff life Jorasses NF, Merkl Welzenbach, Droites NF and I imagine Schmid.

Good luck! If it’s crap, you can always go sport climbing somewhere sunny further south...

Another concern could be that, if you get some early snow, it’ll be enough to be annoying but not enough to be useful.

ie covering rock holds, gear placements and crevasses, but not being solid enough to stand on, take axe placements or provide snow bridges. It can just make everything really time consuming.

As a slight aside..autumn can be a great time for south facing rock up at places like the col d Columbiere...long limestone routes easy access. In summer it can be too hot or wet etc. but autumn can come in stable, crisp & clear perfect climbing weather. Air is clear and the views are the best. Other spots in the area would be Bargy (although that isnt south facing) or the south face of Perrons. 

i dont really do mixed climbing but lived out there a few years. 

Awesome, I’ve done a bit of research and I’ve found some huts that open slightly later. We might drive around and try to hit these huts and do easy climbs from them.

I can send you some information if you like?

Yes, I was thinking that too. In that regard, spring seems preferable and probably safer too.

But you need to be able to ski tour in spring (sorry if that's stating the obvious but it's important to mention in case you aren't a skier).

What's the deal with accessing hut winter rooms in France/Switzerland/Italy/Austria? German (DAV) ones require a key arranged in advance.

I've used winter rooms in all 3  countries in the past & never needed a key. Sometimes the whole hut is accesible   although more often just a section with its own entry (not always obvious). You are expected to pay although I suspect many don't. Some huts are just shut, especially those which are near a road or at lower alitudes, eg the CAF huts in the Vosges.

The Italian ones all have rooms open (by law I think). Most/all CAS one do too. There is normally a nominal charge, and in CAS ones an additional charge if you use firewood (very Swiss).

Hi, yes any info you can send would be great or better still post links here so others can find it in the future.  I discovered that the Torino hut is open all year which is perfect for us as we were planning do some climbs in the Tacul/Tour Ronde area, and have a look at Gran Paradiso, while we acclimatise.   I'm also hoping that some of the rock routes on the south face of the Midi might be doable if it's sunny, either directly from the lift or by staying at the bivouac hut near the Cosmiques for a night.   Once we're acclimatised then hopefully we can look at a bigger climb depending on where the conditions look best.  If the weather is shite I expect we'll quest south to find some sunny sport climbing.

keep the „bergschrund“ in mind. it becomes a bigger challenge in autumn.

The covid travel restrictions are not looking too promising for our trip.  In Scotland you now have to do 14 days quarantine when returning from France and Switzerland.  Unless this changes very soon (which I doubt) we will be cancelling our alpine trip and looking for dry rock in the UK.