Stove recommendation for high altitudes?

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 Getoiu 01 May 2019

I've got a very limited experience with camping stoves and it's been rather negative. I've been recommended Jet Boil but I'm not sure if I'll be able to find canisters locally anywhere I go. What type of stoves/fuel would be adequate for up to 6500m ? 

Removed User 01 May 2019
In reply to Getoiu:

I would go with the MSR Whisperlite or XGK.

2
 planetmarshall 01 May 2019
In reply to Getoiu:

We used MSR Reactors on Ama Dablam at about 6000m. Fast, efficient and minimal faff.

AnonOdy 01 May 2019
In reply to Getoiu:

Try https://www.flue-supplies-uk.co.uk/ they might have what you need. 

Post edited at 14:17
2
 Damo 06 May 2019
In reply to Getoiu:

People would recommend you a Jetboil (of some variant) because they're light, simple, and lots of people use them at altitude because they work. There are issues with Piezo-style electric starters above 5000m, but these seem to have been resolved in later models. MSR Reactors are an improvement on the concept  - they melt snow faster - but they are heavier, more expensive and the pot is not connected to the burner so you can knock it over in the tent more easily.

When you say 'high altitudes' do you mean camping near 8000m on a guided trip, or climbing with mates in Peru on 6000ers? Or 5000ers in some other country? Or 7000ers in Pakistan? Because gas canisters are available in most countries now, if you make the effort, so availability is rarely an issue. Disposability/environmental issues remain. Canister stoves have issues in the cold, they suffer, but there are Google-able techniques to manage this. So where you are going to use it, how cold, how high etc, will also determine what is best.

Liquid fuel stoves - XGK, Whisperlite, Omnifuels etc - are better for cooking meals, better in the cold and have otehr advantages over Jetboil/Reactor type stoves, but they are heavier, more complicated and difficult to use when extended at altitude. They're better if you really have to melt a lot of snow for water, such as on polar trips, but harder to use *inside* a cramped tent you might experience climbing at altitude. Also, although many people burn gasoline in them in developing countries, I never found this a good option, and kerosene in such countries can be of terrible quality, requiring daily stove cleaning and poor burning. Those stoves are meant to burn white-gas (Coleman, bencina blanca, etc) and that is how they work best. Such fuel is not available in many developing countries.

Post edited at 02:39
In reply to Getoiu:

Fast/light - remote canister stove with a preheating tube. You could always order canisters to a local shop/office in advance.

For large groups/extended trips/deep cold get a serviceable stove, and know how to maintain it. XGK is the standard. Even canister stoves can block up, you don't want be up the creek with a stove that won't light from blockages and gas that's not vaporising. 

If you do go canister, read Andy KPs blog on using them in the cold. Putting the canister in warm water or keeping it in my jacket has got me out of difficult situations below -30C where the flame was almost non-existent and green!

 hokkyokusei 07 May 2019
In reply to Getoiu:

Consider a stove with a remote canister, it gives you the option of inverting it in very cold temps.

OP Getoiu 09 May 2019
In reply to Damo:

Thank you for the thorough explanation. Your opinion pretty much sold me on the JetBoil. I'm currently planning trips to the Alps, Eastern Europe and The Caucasus. I'm pretty sure that finding spare canisters in continental Europe would be easy, but I don't remember seeing any in the local shops the last time I went to Russia. Presumably the same goes for Georgia and my future endeavours in South America. I'll give the JetBoil a try and will see how it goes at 4500m and -30 temperatures. I guess the best is to have both JetBoil and Whisperlite that I can have either one depending on the trip. 

 Takein 09 May 2019
In reply to Getoiu:

For one person a Jetboil is ideal, for two people I would get an MSR Reactor which has significantly larger pot... You'll get gas in Georgia for sure. Better to stock up in Tiblisi if you can although available elsewhere too. One thing to look out for with canisters is that in many countries they sell cheap refilled canisters and not always originals... and refills sometimes fail. Even originals vary in quality by brand. If you're taking one canister on a route and its critical then spend the $6 on a branded original. If you're just camping and carrying a few canisters around you can risk the cheap $3 refills as if one does fail it may not be too much of an issue. And never rely on the Jetboil ignition. Carry a flint.


No one ever seems to mention how ridiculously loud an XGK is. We found it difficult to have a conversation while running one in a tent. The Whisperlite may be slightly slower but infinitely quieter, meaning you can cook and chat! Gets my vote every time...

 Pbob 09 May 2019
In reply to Getoiu:

I used an XGK in the Caucasus and it was spot on. They can burn almost anything. I've run mine on dry cleaning fluid and on deisel in the past. In Russia at the time we had no idea what kind of fuel we were buying, as it was just sold directly from tankers parked at the roadside. At one point I managed to fill up on beer by mistake (also sold from a roadside tanker!). No problem. Just emptied and refilled it. Two pieces of advice 1. Get to know your stove really well before taking it to a remote camp. They are really serviceable in the field, but you need to practice. 2. If you are using liquid fuel make sure you decompress the bottle before taking on altitude. The extra pressure differential csn be dangerous.

 Damo 10 May 2019
In reply to Getoiu:

I forgot to mention there are a few models of liquid fuel stove that take canisters as well, so they're a good compromise. They also allow a rough inverting of the canister, to use that method. I was using such a stove on Himalayan/Andean trips for several years but as I never ended up using liquid fuel I now just take my Jetboil.

As for availability, I'm sure canisters are available in Russia, as they sell them at the BC for Peak Lenin etc. They're definitely available in Peru, Bolivia, Argentina and Chile very easily, as well as in India (Leh and Manali) and in Ktm Nepal.

In reply to Getoiu:

Unless you have an external way of heating up the canister, it simply won't produce almost any gas at -30C. Primus winter gas might help, but it doesn't sound promising that you'll be likely to find some. Obviously real world temps are often warmer, people often cook in tents (despite the dangers) and that warms it up by a few degrees, plus if you have warm water the canister can sit in that (massive difference!). With that being said, using a canister stove in deep cold always feels like you're using something way outside of its design brief. If you're actually planning on using a jetboil in -30C, expect very slow use, if any. 

 Mr. Lee 10 May 2019
In reply to Getoiu:

I like to use a multifuel stove at BC and a Jetboil type stove above BC. Way more cooking possibilities with a decent multifuel stove. I use an XGK as well. On the last month long trip I used just kerosene and I didn't need to properly service it until back home. It's pretty easy to fully clean anyway, although it partially cleans itself just by shaking it. There's also not the constant waste being created in the form of gas cannisters.

I use a Jetboil type stove above BC due to its simplicity and lightwight. Easy just to whip it out and melt some snow adhoc. We need a new stove for the next trip. The Micromo and Windburner both look good, depending on whether wind proving or weight is more important. 

 alex.serban 24 May 2019
In reply to Removed User:

you wouldn't want that at the higher camps though. Something that is easy to set up, melts snow fast and is efficient it's all you need. I used a MSR windburner up to 7000. My friend has a Jetboil Zip. Both worked well.


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