South Pillar of the Schrekhorn

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
BDB747 22 Jul 2019

Hello, I am looking to do the above route hopefully this summer. I have read texts in the various books on the route, but wanted to get some personal experiences. I am comfortable climbing VS in rock shoes and in certain cases big
boots as well. It would be great to get some personal experiences from people that have done this climb, thank you.

 McHeath 22 Jul 2019
In reply to BDB747:

I did half of it in 2005; we baled out because the weather was looking as though it could get nasty (it did).

There's nothing about your previous alpine experience in your profile, so sorry if this bit ist superfluous:

There are worlds of different between  a British VS and a UIAA V- on the hardest Bernese 4000er. I was climbing at around E1 at the time and was mighty glad to have the feeling that I had something in reserve. If I'd been a VS climber I think I' have been scared witless. It's a very long day out, you have to be fast and sure of yourself, and there's no time to be placing pro every couple of metres; you have to be able to run it out safely and confidently while carrying a rucksack. We started the pillar in climbing shoes and changed back to big boots for the abseiling (no bolted belays). 

Hope you consider your plans carefully, and that you have a great day should you get on the route!

Edit: PS it's Schreckhorn (roughly translated: Terrorhorn )

Post edited at 13:32
 Pero 23 Jul 2019
In reply to BDB747:

If you are a VS climber with some Alpine experience then the normal route, Southwest Ridge, might prove a sufficient challenge. 

It's a brilliant route on a great mountain. 


New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...