South American Ama Dablam

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 llanberis36 03 Oct 2022

Hi

looking ahead to climb AD in 24. However also looking at an equivalent in South America, as this height can often be climbed in a shorter timeframe 

is there an equivalent peak, over about 6500 and with technical climbing

cheers

 Steve Woollard 03 Oct 2022
In reply to llanberis36:

Alpamayo

1
In reply to llanberis36:

I think your one of your height and technicality criteria will have to flex- there are only 16 Andean peaks over 6500m:

http://www.andes.org.uk/andes-information-files/6000m-peaks.asp

and most of them are big volcanoes in the Puna de Atacama- remote and logistically challenging but technically easy.

Yerupaja is meant to be very hard. The Huascaran peaks are big and I think there are alternative routes to the standard one which might be suitable? Easy logistics too, as so close to Huaraz. 
 

if you were to drop the altitude you’d consider by 500m, you’d have loads of options- Alpamayo suggested above is c5960m 

worth trying to get a copy of this (even if you don’t actually go there- the photos are stunning!):

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Classic-Climbs-Cordillera-Blanca-Peru/dp/097586061...

edit- John Biggar’s guidebook is actually in print, and has a broader coverage- get both if you can!

http://www.andes.org.uk/andes-guidebooks-information.asp#The%20Andes%20-%20...

Post edited at 19:09
 Damo 03 Oct 2022
In reply to llanberis36:

Yerupaja would be the most likely. Or one of the big routes on Huascaran Norte. Slightly lower but also challenging would be Huantsan.

Alpamayo is almost never climbed by anything other than the famously fluted SW face (Ferrari / variations) and often has fixed stakes, sometimes ropes, and people.


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