SE Ridge Weissmies

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Hendofan 16 Jul 2020

Hello me and my son (11) were planning mont Blanc this year but as the hut is full we've changed to the SE ridge of Weissmies. The plan is to go around the 20th Aug and stay in the almageller hut.

Does anyone know if the scramble up the ridge will be too much for someone his size (about 5ft), he's done loads of ridge scrambles in the UK but don't want to come to a climb he cant get up/down? 

mysterion 16 Jul 2020
In reply to Hendofan:

It felt like scramble grade 2 most of the way apart from one avoidable slab that was a bit blank and so grade 3. Felt a lot like Pinnacle Ridge on St Sunday Crag, only ten times longer.

Hendofan 16 Jul 2020
In reply to mysterion:

Great thanks, I didn't read of any serious exposure on the ridge, is that right?

In reply to Hendofan:

Not on the ridge but I remember there being a short level snow section just before the summit that was quite exposed 

 mcawle 16 Jul 2020
In reply to Hendofan:

I did it a couple of years ago. I wouldn't like to comment whether there are any sections that would be 'reachy' for someone 5'.

I don't recall any serious immediate exposure on the ridge as such (i.e. where there is lots of air under foot), but I remember sections where I think you could fall a long way if you took a short tumble or slip and then didn't stop. When I did it it was pretty dry up most of the ridge, but of course it could end up under ice or snow.

There is a final snow crest at the end of the ridge to get to the summit, which had a track in it but was exposed on both sides and again a long way down. Crampons and axe out for sure here. I don't know how conditions might vary on that section in terms of cornices, narrowness, etc.

Are you planning to take a rope and small rack? Have you climbed without a guide in the Alps before?

mysterion 16 Jul 2020
In reply to Hendofan:

Lower down you do get bits of exposure crossing up through various side gullies but it's mainly felt on a couple of snow aretes you need to cross at the top to get to the summit. The track was literally a foots width in places when I did it

Post edited at 16:37
Hendofan 16 Jul 2020
In reply to mcawle:

Yes we did Gran Paradiso last year and Allainhorn the year before before a guide, we did try Lagginhorn but the snow turned us around part way up the ridge.

We'll be roped for the summit day and i'll lead, just don't want him to get stuck getting down as not risking the glacier for the decent. 

 mcawle 16 Jul 2020
In reply to Hendofan:

Sorry I don't understand, I think you're saying you have already done Gran Paradise and Allalinhorn unguided?

If you're roped then he would be ahead of you on the way down and you could secure/lower him.

I think you'd want to be experienced and happy with alpine travel including all rope work, gear placement, and managing conditions etc. before undertaking it (or any alpine route really) without a guide, especially if just you and an 11 year old. It's a nice route but it's still 1200m up and down a 4,000m peak in the Alps. And if anything happened to you (unlikely but possible) he'd be on his own.

 wjcdean 16 Jul 2020
In reply to Hendofan:

Did it a couple of years ago and felt the rock section was pretty straightforward and not too exposed. Grade 2 seems about right as someone else has said

Hendofan 16 Jul 2020
In reply to mcawle:

Sorry wasnt clear, yes they were unguided. I've climbed 7 4000m mountains but would still class myself as a novice as they're mostly tourist routes, I certainly wont be taking any risks with the boy but we're both fit and used to rocky scrambles. 

 BruceM 16 Jul 2020
In reply to Hendofan:

Since you go up and down the same way you can go as far up as you feel able to get back safely.  I have only done it a couple of times.  Both times the rock ridge was in good shape, but once there was a mega exposed knife edge summit crest of ice for the last 50-100m or whatever it is.

The important thing to remember about mountains is that you don't need to go to the top.  A third or half way up is still pretty cool.  There are a few other peaks nearby on that side that are good rock scrambles if the main peak looks too much.


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