Recommended book for newbie alpine climber

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 MisterPiggy 15 May 2020

Evenin' all,

I did sniff around the site and didn't find any recent postings on this topic.

I'm getting back outdoors after years doing other things. I learned trad climbing in the 80s when it was just 'climbing', and learned with an equally clueless buddy. The things we did through ignorance... Yikes! We did a fair bit of Scottish winter climbing too, again, learning the hard way.

Anyhow... This time around I want to do some alpine climbing, adventurous routes without scaring myself or dying, nice mixed routes eg Frendo Spur. The actual climbing will start in earnest 2021, the intervening months getting fit, taking a course, buying some gear and hiking/climbing outside. So alongside all this, I'm looking for something to read, a general how-to guide to alpine climbing. Anyone have any recommendations? Any/all thoughts welcome.

Have a good evening and safe weekend,

julian

 JLS 15 May 2020
In reply to MisterPiggy:

I’m not sure about a book but this DVD is invaluable.

https://shop.thebmc.co.uk/product/alpine-essentials/

 99ster 15 May 2020
In reply to MisterPiggy:

'Alpine Mountaineering: Essential Knowledge for Budding Alpinists'
by Bruce Goodlad

That's the best book for a beginner.

 Rob Exile Ward 15 May 2020
In reply to MisterPiggy:

You may not be able to afford this but I still like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Alpinism-Introduction-Safe-Alpine-Mountaineering/d...

He has a dry sense of humour - 'The mountains will still be there but you may not be' - and he's honest enough to acknowledge that you still have to accept a degree of risk in the Alps.

 Sean Kelly 15 May 2020
In reply to MisterPiggy:

 No book info as such but a lot of classics in the Dolomites with lots of pegs or bolts for protection. So as they say , good for the married hardman but you need to be fit in the arms for the bigger routes.  And there are always Via Ferrata. Enjoy!

Post edited at 18:17
 Mark Haward 15 May 2020
In reply to MisterPiggy:

Another vote for the Goodlad book...

 Albert Tatlock 15 May 2020
In reply to MisterPiggy:

Just carry on from were you left off years ago, not much has changed. Search these forums for alpinist related stuff / advice , you will be fine. Remember every trip is still an holiday. 🍺

1
OP MisterPiggy 17 May 2020
In reply to MisterPiggy:

Thank you all for your recommendations, I'll probably get them all. Alongside the excellent BMC videos and some websites I found, I can get up to speed before my course.

And the via ferrata will be great for my wife to get used to 'exposure' in safety: she's never climbed.

Good weekend to all 😀

OP MisterPiggy 11 Jun 2020
In reply to Mark Haward:

Thank you Mark and others for the recommendation of the Bruce Goodlad book...! It arrived today - looks just the job.

Regards, julian

 HardenClimber 11 Jun 2020
In reply to Rob Exile Ward:

Yes, the Peter Cliffe book has some good bits even tho getting a bit old... A useful second book.

In reply to MisterPiggy:

Hi,

These two, at the BMC shop, might also be worth checking, although I don't know how they compare with Goodlad's book. There's a PDF link for the 1st, & an updated, digital version of the 2nd. There's this mini guide, too:

https://books.google.co.uk/books/about/Rucksack_Guide_Alpinism.html?id=XQrZ...

Hope you enjoy your course!

Thanks,
R

https://shop.thebmc.co.uk/product/new-alpinists/
The 32-page booklet explores the skills, knowledge and equipment required to become an alpinist, and includes chapters on equipment, fitness preparation, planning and acclimatisation, glacier travel and hazards, huts and bivouacs, and emergency procedures: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/Handlers/DownloadHandler.ashx?id=1475

https://shop.thebmc.co.uk/product/uiaa-alpine-summer/
This handbook is intended for hikers, climbers and mountaineers who wish to progress in the practice of their favourite activity by acquiring additional knowledge and skills. It has been developed specifically as a reference document for trip leaders and instructors of clubs and federations within the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation. The handbook‘s four modules focus primarily on summer activities: basic knowledge, alpine hiking, climbing and alpinism. Its goal is to put forth proven techniques that should be learned and mastered through proper technical training as provided by an instructor.
* https://www.theuiaa.org/uiaa/introducing-the-uiaa-alpine-summer-skills-seri...


 


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