Recent Dent De Geant experience

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 llanberis36 02 Sep 2022

Hi

we are going out in a couple of weeks and have the normal route on the Geant as an option, from the hut.

has anyone been on the glacier/approach/route recently.

thanks

 jon 02 Sep 2022
In reply to llanberis36:

No recent experience, but the steep ground betwwen the glacier and the base of the dent is notoriously dangerous in dry conditions. But I guess that's why you're asking...

 philipjardine 02 Sep 2022
In reply to llanberis36:

at the moment it is a death trap.  The trick with alpine climbing is to match the current conditions with your route choice.  `I know that's tricky for British based climbers but Cham does have the great benefit of the team at La Chamoniarde.  Go in there on your first day and they will give you reliable, helpful info in English.  

1
 Hard Hawk 02 Sep 2022
In reply to llanberis36:

I was up there in June before all the big heatwaves and there was constant rockfall on the approach even then. I'd be hesitant to climb it if there were any other teams above me as the entire approach from the glacier to the main spire is a pile of delicately balanced choss. Can only imagine things have deteriorated further since then..

 philipjardine 02 Sep 2022
In reply to llanberis36:

if you are going out soon worth knowing that the MB tunnel is completely shut for 3 weeks from 17 oct

OP llanberis36 02 Sep 2022
In reply to philipjardine:

Great thanks. Dent is just one we are considering, from experience we always have an open mind. Additionally not climbed on the Peigne slabs (thinking lepidopteres). Do you know if these are currently climbable

cheers

OP llanberis36 02 Sep 2022
In reply to Hard Hawk:

Was this at night can I ask when you walked in 

OP llanberis36 02 Sep 2022
In reply to jon:

Thanks, I think 😎

 philipjardine 02 Sep 2022
In reply to llanberis36:

yes all those routes on the peigne slabs are perfect.  I think Lépidoptères is harder than its given in some guides! good recent topo here.  He has lots of good recent topos on his website.  

https://passion-alpes.com/2022/07/30/topo-aiguille-du-peigne-gendarme-3009m...

Post edited at 09:46
OP llanberis36 02 Sep 2022
In reply to philipjardine:

Great thank you

 philipjardine 02 Sep 2022
In reply to llanberis36:

not my photo but this is the Marbrées from camp to camp a few days ago.  gives you the general flavour of what things are like

https://www.camptocamp.org/outings/1463476/en/aiguilles-marbrees-traverse

Post edited at 18:27
 philipjardine 07 Sep 2022
In reply to llanberis36:

from this afternoons la Chamoniard report:

Quelques cordées du côté de la Dent du Géant. L'accès à la Salle à Manger est toujours bien sec. La compagnie des guides de Courmayeur va réévaluer prochainement les conditions pour voir si elles sont acceptables pour y amener des clients.

the whole thing will up on the ac site in English in a bit

 PJ2398 08 Sep 2022
In reply to llanberis36:

I’ve just uploaded a photo from Tuesday that shows the glacier and approach to the Dent du Geant. There is recent snow on the glacier and there have been two storms through since Tuesday afternoon so probably more now. Loads of rockfall constantly going on. The Marbrees and the Entreves were being done- the glaciers were well tracked but, I think, only as far as the Marbrees. 


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