Rappel on Traverse of Pointes Lachenal

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 glaramara 20 Jun 2019

I understand the rap on this is 32m. I am only taking a 50m this summer. Does anybody who knows the route know of any work arounds e.g. intermediate ab stations or is it downclimbable (is that a word?).

db

 Iamgregp 20 Jun 2019
In reply to glaramara:

Bit out of the box this but you could try that method that Ueli Steck used - rig the rope on one side and cord on the other, ab down the rope side then pull on the cord side to get the rope down?

Not sure how you rig it so that the rope pulls one way but not the other?

Post edited at 13:33
 Mark Haward 20 Jun 2019
In reply to glaramara:

I've done this route a couple of times, although not in the last two years. A 50m rope was fine, it reached an easy but exposed snowslope. In my experience many of the easier routes that guides use regularly, such as this, are set up for 25m abseils so an extra rope / cord is not needed.

1philjones1 20 Jun 2019
In reply to glaramara:

Did it a few years ago with an ab on a 50m rope and then a protected downclimb and traverse from an intermediate belay. Fortunately we were the only ones on the route but I doubt it would be popular with others if it’s busy. Then did it two years ago and doubled up ropes with another climbing pair of friends. How hard the downclimb will be depends on the level of snow/ice in the Gully and your level of skill. I wouldn’t have fancied the icy downclimb two years ago.

 elliott92 21 Jun 2019
In reply to Iamgregp:

Put the rope through the maillon/rap ring, tie an overhand fig 8 and/or couple of big over hands. Knots need to be considerably bigger than the maillon/rap ring opening so the rope doesn't pull through and you fall. Tie cord to the knot side of the rope. Ab down the rope and then pull the cord which will pull the rope through. Or this is how I interpreted what euli did but have never tried this in anger 

1
In reply to elliott92:

Not far off... but you'd need to back up the fig 8 with a krab. Here's a decent explanation:

https://www.climbing.com/skills/long-rappel-short-rope/

 elliott92 21 Jun 2019
In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

I thought there might be something missing. Thanks for the link 

 Iamgregp 21 Jun 2019
In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

Thanks!

OP glaramara 22 Jun 2019
In reply to A Longleat Boulderer:

Bit Indian rope tricky for a simple creature like me I reckon. Maybe another team will let us zip down their rope. Or down climb.

 Tommy Harris 27 Jun 2019
In reply to glaramara:

done it a few time a couple of years ago and there was a intermittent Anchor point halfway down, cant comment if its still there now, Teams with a 60 can normally do the whole lot in one with the stretch in rope, but I have also done it in 2 shorter abseils before with a 50


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