UKH

Would like to do the normal route (North-West ridge) this Saturday and wondering what's the most recent conditions are like. Aware of the Chamonix Conditions published by Alpine Club but there hasn't been update since the previous Sunday (26 Aug). Appreciate for some first-hand account of the route. Thanks in advance.

My friend did this on Wednesday the 5th. Thin black ice and loose rock. It sounded horrendous and they had a minor epic with the conditions. Probably best left for another year/earlier in the season now.

Might be worth checking with OHM about the condition of the Demi-lune route up the PAV- same grade and you can an back down it. May be in better condition than the normal route.  Alternatively the East ridge is a great couple of hours on rock