One route for one day in March in Chamonix

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Removed User 19 Oct 2022

Hello,

I am on a scientific retreat in Chamonix at the start of March. If I was to stay an extra day which easy mixed mountaineering route would you recommend?

I have previously done the Cosmiques in March - so looking for something along those lines i.e. fairly easy, short and not requiring much commitment. Nothing harder as I am well out of shape with a very weak leg due to a knee injury. I don't ski so any approach would be in snow shoes (if required).

Not a very exciting question obviously, but thanks in advance...

 LG-Mark 19 Oct 2022
In reply to Removed User:

Depending on snow conditions, Point Lachenal Traverse might be a good option.

 OCDClimber 19 Oct 2022
In reply to Removed User:

Aig. Petite Verte.  There are several options including a gully round to the left, a direct which is mostly snow/ice and a mixed ridge.  Short and sweet but without the aid move found on the Cosmiques so a little shorter and easier overall.

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 HammondR 19 Oct 2022
In reply to OCDClimber: without the uplift from the Grand Montets cable car (which burned down 4 years ago) the approach to the Petite Verte migh be considered disproportionately long, particularly on snow shoes with a bad leg.

Using the Plan Joran and Bochard lifts would then probably involve a 3 to 4 hour round trip on snow shoes. Plus the route.

 OCDClimber 19 Oct 2022
In reply to HammondR:

I wasn't aware of that. I'm sure I saw ads last winter displaying the timetable and prices.  I must be mistaken.

Post edited at 15:04
 HammondR 19 Oct 2022
In reply to OCDClimber: the lift is still conspicuous by its absence and is unlikely to be reconstructed for at least 4 more years 

 liss 19 Oct 2022
In reply to Removed User:

If you're able to get to Italy and use the Skyway, it might be worth looking at the Aiguilles Marbrees?  There are out-and-back options which avoid the more technical sections. Approach is pretty short and I remember it feeling easier than the Cosmiques.

 Fredt 19 Oct 2022
In reply to Removed User:

Ordinary Routes on Aiguilles du Peigne or Pelerins.
Chapelle de la Glière in the Aiguilles Rouges.
Spencer Couloir.
Petits Charmoz

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 Mark Haward 20 Oct 2022
In reply to Fredt:

All those routes are great but I think you missed the 'easy, mixed, one day in March' criteria.

 Mark Haward 20 Oct 2022
In reply to Removed User:

As someone else mentioned getting up to the Torino is a good option. Several choices of short routes easily accessible. Obviously will feel hard work without acclimatisation so take it easy.

Possible shorter easier lines include the Toule, Grand and Petit Flambeau.

Slightly more committing could be the Marbrees, Entreves and Tour Ronde

Removed User 20 Oct 2022
In reply to Mark Haward:

I had that question - is Aiguilles Rouge out in March generally as I had in mind those routes were essentially rock climbing?

 OCDClimber 20 Oct 2022
In reply to Removed User:

There are several routes on the rock triangle of Mont Blanc Du Tacul, opposite the Cosmiques.  I've done all of them.  They are quite good and feel less committing than many in the area. The one up the middle, I think it's called the Contamine Mazead, was very good.  Take care on the descent as the area is notorious for serac falls. Not sure what the approach will be like.  It's short, I did it on skis, but it should be possible on snow shoes.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BTRj8DR1L_U&ab_channel=tvmountain

Post edited at 11:02
Removed User 20 Oct 2022
In reply to OCDClimber:

I've looked at the Contamine-Mazeaud from the bottom previously, but not sure my ice climbing is up to scratch at the minute  to be honest. I've done the Chere Colouir at that time of year, defo possible to approach the Triangle in snow shoes so I'll defo consider.

Post edited at 11:17
 Mark Haward 20 Oct 2022
In reply to Removed User:

You might be lucky and get clean rock and warm conditions. The Crochues Traverse may be good but I've never done it in winter and also there may be significant avalanche risk in some sections on the approach and descent. Perhaps someone with better knowledge will chip in. Contamine Grisolle is easier than Mazeaud but the descent may be very avalanche prone and or better in skis. Perhaps not ideal with a dodgy knee. Torino area would give you more flexibility / choice, plus the coffee is excellent!

 OCDClimber 20 Oct 2022
In reply to Removed User:

If I recall The Grisole in particular is mostly a relatively easy angled plod with a short section where a gully narrows providing a little more technical interest. It is no where near as sustained and steep as the Chere.

Removed User 20 Oct 2022
In reply to OCDClimber:

So I see there is an option to abseil down the Chere if the snow conditions on the normal route descent are dangerous.

I should say that I did the Chere a decade ago, in much better fettle and found it to completely stepped out.

All food for thought - thanks all.

 Remyveness 28 Oct 2022
In reply to Removed User:

Take the panoramic across to Italy and do something over that side (bearing in mind the lifts timings aren't very climber friendly) 

Aiguille d'Entrèves Traverse (AD- 4c)

Aiguilles Marbrées Traverse (AD 4b)

or a very low commitment combination of the Toule/Petit Flambeau. 

 HammondR 28 Oct 2022
In reply to Remyveness:

The panoramic does not operate in winter.


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