UKH

Hi all

Looking for someone interested in joining (classic route via Goteur ridge).

Most likely leaving UK 24th or 25th (roughly 7-8 days)

Thanks

i am interested in ski touring up mont blanc later in the year, in late march or early april. probably from the north side. need to do some more research. any interest in that plan?

Mate, if you go via the Gouter route in winter, you face the long trek to the Nid d'Aigle exposed to apalling avo risk the whole way. Ive ski toured up there a couple of times and the track has been completely swept by avalanches of Himalayan scale. No one goes that way. 

Ascent via the Trois Monts is poss, but, once again, the risks/difficulties are over-whelming in winter. 

JC

Especially in early winter when the holes are filled in just enough to be invisible but not enough to actually be full...

Ooh, put my name down for that - it'll save me the bottle of whisky and a revolver I had in mind!

I seam to be saying this a lot lately 

There is a bridge around here somewhere 😁

Hi all.

Appreciate all the comments and your advice (a bit of sarcasm is always good). I will prepare a revolver - in case i need it (seems easier than the "bridge idea").

We're all different, we all aim for different achievements.

I was in rush last time when posting so i'll add up some info to the above.

I've been to the summit 3 times already (twice leading commercial group, once - solo).

I would risk to say - i am familiar with French route & potential risk on that mountain but also fairly confident about the experience (hoping i don't sound smart ass). I was lucky and managed to climb much higher mountains and experienced unexpected bivouacs with only "elephant leg" in my rucksack, not even a bivi or sleeping bag. 

JOHN C. - i will fully agree with you, winter changes everything including "time frame" estimated for certain section of the climb. I am also considering avalanche risk .... but thanks for pointing this out. I must admit your info about people avoiding French route was a bit of a surprise to me. Lots of climbers say otherwise - Midi route (via Mont Maudit and Du Tacul), hanging seracs, exposed, narrow ridge is way more risky than "drowning" in snow.

They also say "Vallot section" (from the shelter to the summit), which is part of the French route (very narrow passages on that ridge, exposed) is much higher risk even with an average wind blowing.

That avalanche section you have described - one of my colleagues made a cardinal mistake there recently .... see below link (not sure if you can translate sad news, sorry).

https://www.fakt.pl/wydarzenia/polska/wroclaw/walim-smierc-mlodego-alpinist...

So to sum up:

Looking at the weather at the moment and the snow fall 23rd-25th (and next 5 days forecast) i am 50/50. It seams like 28th could create my "window". Still - very strong wind (increasing from 28th ... ) on the way back, is a question mark.

Anyway, i wasn't expecting such quick responses so once again, thanks a lot guys.

Happy Christmas to all 

Good luck and please do let us know how you get on . I hope you get the weather.

Are you talking about doing this with skis or on foot?

Hi Dave.

Yes, foot - of course.

Typical Alpine climbing but winter condition (no ski / ski-touring aspect during this trip).

In winter folk typically ski. I don't think you'll get many partners willing to wade. 

I'll take it back and apologise. To be honest I never expected a reply but u proved me wrong 

JOHN

LISTEN TO THIS ^^^^^^

These types of posts come up now and then. I just don’t get it. Even supposing you find a partner (which you won’t, and if you do it’s probably going to be someone who hasn’t got a clue). Days are very short. No track (can you navigate at night?). Very cold. Loads of snow (madness to go there on foot, avalanche risk whether or foot or skis). No one else around (if the chopper can’t fly, you’re toast). Think about it... Why not head to Scotland for a few days for some winter climbing instead...

I've heard of Himalaya, Alpine style.  I guess this is the Alps, Himalayan style?

Hey Misha. 

Yes i would (thought about it) but 600 miles to drive to see patches of snow, bit of rain / mist, not an option this Christmas (i mentioned Hol window is fixed).

Maybe Jan-Feb. 

That is fully correct Pero, no matter where i stop, i am prepared to sleep, eat and have a poo.

Next time - if picky, let's be picky about each word (climb = "style" for you, really ???)

That is true, nothing to do in Scotland right now. Personally I’m happy to eat, drink and be merry and head indoors for some training, then jump on appropriate Alpine objectives when the stars align (partner, conditions and weather). Good to stack the cards in your favour with these things as it’s hard enough as it is. It might mean that I don’t get as much done as I could but it also helps with staying alive and ready for when the stars do align. Each to their own though.

Just wondering if you made the winter climb up Mont Blanc ? If so, it would be interesting to hear how you got on.