Mont blanc 1 day guide.

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Hendofan 13 Jul 2020

Hi guys my son and I are attempting mont blanc this year. I've done it before and we did gran paradiso last year but we need a guide for summit day, he's 11 so can't help me. I don't need a 4 day or more course so does anyone know of guides that will just do the summit day? Thanks.

 jon 14 Jul 2020
In reply to Hendofan:

It’s highly unlikely that you’ll find a guide for MB for Just one day. The absolute minimum would be two days - even if you met the guide at the hut, don’t forget that they have to get to the hut the previous day. Also take into account that most guides work on a tarif for MB rather than their normal daily rates. I do know guides that, given the right conditions (and the right clients...) are sometimes willing to do the 3Ms route from the Midi lift and down the Gouter in the day, but they’ll always charge the full tarif, and besides, that’s not something you’d want to subject your 11 year old to!

If you do find a guide who is willing to do what you propose or work for substantially less than the going rate, be very careful to check their credentials as there are still cowboys out there. Remember that a non qualified ‘guide‘ will not be insured...


Also bear in mind that the guide/client ratio is strictly 1:2 so the two of you joining another client(s) is a non starter. Apologies if you already know a lot of this!

 Tom Briggs 14 Jul 2020
In reply to Hendofan:

Any route on Mont Blanc has significant objective danger. I wouldn't want to subject an 11-year old to that, personally. 

 DaveHK 14 Jul 2020
In reply to Hendofan:

Is the first day on MB sufficiently straightforward that a guide wouldn't be required? I'd imagine if you felt the need for a guide on day 2 you'd probably benefit from one on day 1 too?

I'm assuming it's the Gouter Route.

 ianstevens 14 Jul 2020
In reply to DaveHK:

If you stay at the Tete Rousse then yes, it's just walking. Problem with having a guide for one day is that they also need to get to the TR... 

 DaveHK 14 Jul 2020
In reply to ianstevens:

> If you stay at the Tete Rousse then yes, it's just walking. Problem with having a guide for one day is that they also need to get to the TR... 

I was assuming they would go to the Gouter, would doing it from the TR not be pretty tough for an 11 year old? But what I was really getting at was that it's probably wrong to think the difficult/risky bits are all above the Gouter hut.

 ianstevens 14 Jul 2020
In reply to DaveHK:

> I was assuming they would go to the Gouter, would doing it from the TR not be pretty tough for an 11 year old? But what I was really getting at was that it's probably wrong to think the difficult/risky bits are all above the Gouter hut.

Oh I agree entirely - the most dangerous bit is between the two huts, and assumed the OP would be after a guide for this bit

 McHeath 14 Jul 2020
In reply to Hendofan:

The elephant in the room: how will you and your son acclimatize? I'm presuming that you won't be taking him straight up to 4800m without preparing on at least another 4000er first, and there are no easy ones in Chamonix. Hope you've got something planned, and wish you success! 

1
Hendofan 14 Jul 2020
In reply to jon:

Thanks for the info and you're right that a tariff as opposed to a day rate makes the 1 day plan pointless. The plan was to spend 3 days on the mountain prior to the summit attempt and we would be able to get the Gouter in that time. The couloir was the main danger before the hut and the plan was to get past this at first light (not a lot a guide can do with the rockfall).

The main concern is glacier travel and exposed ridge scrambling as he is too small to arrest any fall, hence only needing the guide for the summit day.

I've looked into a 2 day plan but they are all saying the Gouter is full. Its too dangerous to get up to the Gouter hut in the dark from TR so we might switch to the Dom (still with a guide). The quote was for £1,100 for the 2 of us so if anyone knows of a decent 2 day guide for this let me know.

1
 DaveHK 14 Jul 2020
In reply to Hendofan:

>  (not a lot a guide can do with the rockfall).

You might be surprised by that. A little local knowledge can go a long way in mitigating risks like rockfall.

Post edited at 13:36
 George.D 16 Jul 2020
In reply to Hendofan:

I have to be honest, my view is MB is not an appropriate place for an 11 year old.

Climbers in the high alpine need to be able to make judgments and understand complex evolving situations, largely based on experience and understanding of mountain environments and human behaviour. They should be prepared to be fully responsible for themselves, even if guided, as well as ready to assist others should it be needed. These are fundamental principles of being in the mountains, not enshrined in law but just common sense and responsible behaviour. And we should seek to pass them on to the younger generation.

I understand totally the impulse to pass on the joy of climbing to young children - but I would be concerned if I witnessed an 11 year old being short-roped high on MB. I also worry that if something happened to your son the mayor of St Gervais would view it as yet another example of inappropriate behaviour on MB and look to further restrict other climbers from using the mountain, as has already been done. 

Post edited at 13:33

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