In reply to Bruce Hooker: Christ you're a hater, aren't you? Just for the record Rebuffat was NOT making a living as a photographer at the time, it was partly the fame he achieved on Herzog's expedition that enabled him to branch out later in his career. If you're going to slag someone off for being dishonest you should at least get your facts right.
And though I can't be a***ed to look it up now, I suspect that members of the Brit Everest espedition also had similar restrictions placed on them - after all the Times (in the form of Jan Morris) had exclusive rights to the story, and it was - and is - a sensible way of financing expeditions.
Like Scott, Shackleton, Shipton and any number of others there's a pendulum at work here, one minute they're heroes, next minute someone (usually with a hidden agenda or an axe to grind) presents a completely different view.... the truth, seldom pure and never simple, lies somewhere in between.
In the meantime, he's just died, many people respected him, and he achieved at least one great thing in his lfe. More than I will, I suspect.