UKH

Hi all, 

I'm a 22 year-old Sheffield based fair-weather climber and walker looking to step into the world of mountaineering and winter climbing. I've not got any experience in these disciplines, but I'm eager to learn. 

CV: I've got a cool head, a love for the mountains, and enjoy the struggle. I've climbed for about 8 years in various countries leading multi pitch routes, trad and sport. Done a little bit of bolting and new-routing in Malawi (Southern Africa) where I grew up. I enjoy taking long walks e.g. did the Pennine and WH way last year solo carrying all my kit. Current climbing ability peaking at around HVS/E1 and 6c. At work I'm a blade repair technician on wind turbines and use rope access in the job. 

Ideal partner would obviously be an experienced and patient individual willing to guide me through the initial learning curve. Realistically such a person is hard to find, so if there is anyone out there in a similar spot to me we could partner up and work it out together. I know I could and possibly should just fork out for a course, but would prefer to do it the old fashioned way and learn on the job. I back my own ability to be safe and always approach the mountains with a healthy amount of respect. 

Not much of a concrete plan as yet, just testing the waters with this post. The dream would be a long trip in the Alps in Jan-March 2022 visiting some steady classics. I've got my own car, and would be happy with the drive. If this sparks any interest, my email is tomalawi265@gmail.com

Cheers

I think it'd be a big jump straight into alpine winter climbing, much better to build up experience in Scottish winter or summer alpine first. Do you ski? The vast majority of people ticking summits in the Alps in Jan-March will be ski touring.

Edit to add: even if you did want to get into, say, ice climbing in the Alps, it seems a huge commitment to go for three months. Suffering in the cold is an acquired taste, are you sure you'd enjoy it?

Cheers for the response. I agree that it's a big jump to make but not an impossible one, as long as I approach it with care and choose sensible ascents. The inherent risk is obviously increased by my lack of experience, but I have confidence in myself and my decision making in hairy situations, though of course you never know until you're there. It's also a gamble for a prospective partner, so my email is there if they want to meet up before hand to see it will work for them.  

I don't think I'll enjoy suffering in the cold at the time, but I'm after that delayed gratification, your type 2 fun. Again, can't know till you're there but, you've got to get there first. 

I should have been more clear with the 'dream trip'. Probably not one that will actually happen, and the time period was meant to be between Jan and March, not from Jan to March. 3 solid months would definitely be too much type 2 fun! Also aware that it may not be realistic to gun straight for the alps so I'm not at all against a Scottish winter trip either, just leading with the ideal. 

Again, it's a risk not many people will want to take on, and fair enough. I've probably listened too much to my dad's stories of his alpine exploits and read too many books...but I think it will pay off, given the chance. 

I don't ski. How much of an obstacle do you think this is to climbing/mountaineering objectives? I don't mind a long walk in lugging kit and I'm not so interested in summit bagging, more on doing a couple of steady ascents to gain experience and take the time to enjoy being out there. 

I am based in the Ecrins near Briancon. Normally from Jan - March as suncream said it more about ski touring/mountaineering, getting on steeper lines as the snow settles down later in the season, even if your planning on climbing something mixed etc its done with skis for the descent or left at the bottom. If your think long easy snow lines like the dome des Ecrins you would just be deep snow going no where fast. 

In jan and some of feb we get ice cragging easy(ish) access routes of single or mainly multi pitch, as its gets later and the lower stuff starts to melt people head to higher ice falls but again normally accessed by skis. 

In feb the weather gets a bit more settled and rock climbing is back on the cards on sunny days. 

I am guessing ( I may be wrong) what your thinking of as mountaineering is more late spring early summer with access ok on foot but still ok conditions for snow and mixed lines. 

maybe come up with a list of route of the type you would like to try and chuck them on here and I am sure someone will tell you when they are normally in condition.

best of look with your plans, feel free to drop me a line if you have questions.

Cheers

Aye that sounds like it. Thanks for the advice 👍 Looks like I should learn to ski. 

Well be aware that that is more straight forward in the Alps than in Scotland, due to the weather and conditions being a little more unpredictable, but even in the Alps, you cannot be sure. Yet I'm not sure if they have to ski on grass or heather in Les Trois Vallees.

Just a small (?) point which you're very probably aware of, but if you head for the Alps you should have practiced crevasse rescue techniques somewhere first (or do it as soon as you get there). Good luck with your plans! 

Hi Tom,

I've sent you an email as I'm in a similar situation. 

Cheers,

Cameron

learning to ski is great. But it kind of depends on what your goals are, many will go to Scotland for winter climbing and the odd ice cragging trip to Europe also and then the alpine stuff in summer. Getting in to skiing opens up ski tour/mountaineering there is some cross over but its also very different and more done in its own right. 

Hi Tom, I'm Huddersfield based and in a similar situation. I would be very keen for a trip to Scotland at some point over the winter.

Feel free to drop me a message anytime