Looking for a specific type of a snow/ice route

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nordiccer 07 Jan 2020

I'm looking for a route of a specific type:

-Mostly snow/ice

-Features a crux of around 55 to 70 degrees steepness but is for the most part not that steep (i.e. couloir routes unlikely to fit the bill).

-No rock climbing beyond UIAA III

-Preferably in Europe

-Preferably no glacier crossing

-Preferably no abseiling required on descent

The Nollen route (Mönch) fits my requirements but I'd like some alternatives as it seems like the Nollen bulge varies quite a bit season to season.

In reply to nordiccer:

interesting set of requirements. genuinely curious why the route needs to meet this criteria?

Tough to come up with a solution to meet all criteria, i suspect ruling out glacier crossings may limit you on this type of route. 

 McHeath 07 Jan 2020
In reply to nordiccer:

The Ortler north face ticks all the boxes, but it's long (1200m) and not unrisky.

 wbo2 07 Jan 2020
In reply to nordiccer: Surely something in Jotunheimen? Falketind in winter?

 Darron 07 Jan 2020

In reply to

If it does not have to be a mountain route then Holiday on ice at Ceillac may fit the bill apart from the rock bit.

 pass and peak 07 Jan 2020
In reply to nordiccer:

There was once upon a time, not so long ago, in a land not so far away from here that had a plethora of route to fit your bill. However it's + 8 degrees, blowing like hell and pissing down. Oh well here's hoping anyway!

Sorry I could be of more assistance

M

 Dave Garnett 07 Jan 2020
In reply to pass and peak:

> There was once upon a time, not so long ago, in a land not so far away from here that had a plethora of route to fit your bill.

I did one a couple of weeks ago that matches all of the requirements except location.  Southern California is much more reliable than Scotland!

 Mark Haward 07 Jan 2020
In reply to nordiccer:

The Contamine routes on the Tacul fulfil most requirements - exception is that there is a short but fairly straightforward glacier approach.


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