UKH

Hi all,

After a recent trip out to the Swiss alps mountaineering I've caught the bug and can't wait to get back out there. I was wondering if I could get some recommendations of some reasonably sized 3000-4000+ peaks in the alps that are lesser known. We had out eyes on Mont Blanc however its so popular and busy in July that we wanted something a bit out of the box. 

I'm a pretty experienced climber at E2 - 7a+-b and I've done my fair share of crampon work so a route that combines scrambling or possibly climbing along with some ice would be nice. However any ice climbing is, sadly, a no go for the time being.

Overall any recommendations for some fun and less busy alpine routes would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Harry

The Salbitschijen near Andermatt would be perfect for you. Lots of great rock climbs on amazing granite, right near a super nice hut. 

The West Ridge is one of the bests days out ever. 30 pitches of three star granite between VS and E2.

Loads of other great routes there too. 

https://www.alpkit.com/deeds/salbit-westgrat-alpine-training

The Klein Wannenhorn south pillar above Bitsch. 

Not quite 3000 but I recently discovered  Hochkönig which has some epic routes on it. 

Been looking into Zinalrothorn myself lately. http://www.hikr.org/tour/post54803.html

Reported to be one of the finest rock climbs in the Zermatt region and over 4000m.

Salbitschijen is also very good but has a more alpine/sport feeling to it in my opinion.

The south pillar of the Schreckhorn (4078m) in the Bernese Alps is apparently a magnificent way up the most difficult Bernese 4000er (TD+, UIAA V-, 1600m). There's half a page on it in Moran's 4000m peaks of the Alps. Here's a blog entry:

http://www.andyteasdaleguiding.com/blog.php?id=111&page=4

The German publisher Rother publish a couple of great books in their Hochtouren series, Ostalpen & Estalpen (Western Alps & Eastern Alps respectively if you hadn't worked it out!) by Edwin Schmitt & Wolfgang Pusch, which cover this sort of info. They have lots of great selections, on & off the beaten tracks, at all grades, rock, snow & ice, peaks of 3000m+. Much like RockFax there's symbols, great maps & photo-diagrams, so your German doesn't have to be that good: use Bing-translate if needs be. I've used them for a while & of course they can just provide the basis for further research before you head out. Get them online.

Ok, it's pedantry time - Westalpen, not Estalpen; and you've got the translations the wrong way round; still a good suggestion though!

Arolla is nice. Have you considered the Douves Blanches Ridge (Southwest Ridge (D)) . A lovely long alpine ridge with a HVS sort of crux near the top.

Steve