UKH

So I wasn't gonna post until they got back but it's on FB already and I'm just too excited about the news...

Tom Livingstone, Luca Strazar and Ales Cesen have climbed the North Ridge of Latok 1. I chatted to Tom through the InReach today and it took 7 days BC to BC. Sounds like they didn't stick purely to the ridge in the last quarter, finding a safer line on the face, but InReach chat is quite limiting so I'll let them fill us in with the details when they get back.

Amazing effort. This was Tom's first Himalayan expedition!

An audible "wow!". That is significant. Can't wait to hear more about it.

Wow! That really is big news.

Chapeau. That's seriously impressive. What a line. 

Out of idle curiosity, is Ales related to Tomo?

Thanks for posting

b

https://gripped.com/profiles/40-years-later-and-latok-i-north-ridge-still-u...

Not sure actually

Nice article! Shows just how impressive this is.

Yes, his son.

Absolutely brilliant. I wondered if your cryptic message on the Piolet d'Or thread, Ben, might be related to Tom's expedition. It's even more staggering considering the very public and recent history on the mountain.

Indeed, I have to admit to being rather stressed out whilst they were on the mountain!

No offence but sounds like the north ridge of Latok I hasn’t been climbed then?

They're not planning on claiming an integral ascent of the ridge, but it has essentially been climbed in what sounds like the most logical manner. Other attempts might have considered this option. If you want to go and do a direct eliminate line via some deathy snow mushrooms and cornices be my guest. 

Edit: someone might arrive there in another 30 years and find the upper ridge free of mushrooms and cornices, and climb it direct. But what they have done seems like a sound mountaineering decision to me, and the vast majority of the ridge was ascended 

Given the only previous ascent of Latok 1 was from the south, this is really historic even without a claim of an integral ascent. Tom must be chuffed to bits with his first Himalayan outing!

Exactly five years ago I replied to a post on here from the 18 year old Tom looking for a last minute partner for Pembroke. Despite the 30+ year age difference we had a brilliant few days with Tom doing his first E5's, and his incredible enthusiasm rubbing off on me to do my first for five years! It's been amazing following his phenomenal progress since then, culminating in this absolutely boggling achievement of ticking THE last great problem. Awesome!

Exactly!

Yep, that's Tom. Boundless enthusiasm and confidence.

Outstanding!  I can't wait to hear more...fantastically impressive!

Plus ability and talent or ‘just’ hard work!

Great stuff. 

True. The perfect is the enemy of the good, and this is very good whichever way they went.

Most won't remember, but back in the mid-90s Jeff Lowe himself was saying that the ridge was not really the challenge, and that with modern gear and techniques, an ascent of the ice smears and difficult mixed terrain of the north face itself was the thing for future climbers to aim for.

Yeah for sure. That NF looks totally crazy. This ridge was dubbed the last great problem of the previous generation or something right? The faces round there look insane (and incredibly dangerous)