Guidance needed: 6000m+ Peak Nepal

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 TomA_93 27 Jun 2022

Good afternoon all! Long time lurker, first time poster.

I have the opportunity to organise an expedition to Nepal, but I am looking for some advice on which peak would be most suited to the group. It is my first time organising and overseas expedition, but luckily I am in an organisation that has the resources. Now I need you to help me with the location.

The aim of the expedition is to set the foundations for a future mountaineering association within the organisation. The group will be of mixed experience, rank and gender, but it must be presumed that they are starting from the beginning. There will be a selection and training process, which will bring people from foundation level, all the way to alpine and able to summit a 6000m+ peak in Nepal. This is over the course of 2 years, with 4 exercises overall. The intention is to avoid the most 'touristy' peaks, as it will help secure funding and showcase the aims of the association.

My other question is in regards to what Nepali tour operators mean when they say "technical climbing skills required". Is it being able to use crampons and a jump, or is it able to climb pitched snow and ice such as in Scottish winter mountaineering?

Peak choices:

1. Thamserku

2. Singhu Chuli

3. Lobuche East

4. Chulu Far East

Thank you in advance,

Tom

1
 Moacs 27 Jun 2022
In reply to TomA_93:

I wrote a fairly detailed reply but have deleted it because I think you're being disingenuous about this.

It looks like you guide hill walks in the UK and want to expand...and have a client interested in a bigger programme.

People may be willing to give free expert and advice, but you need to be honest about the situation.

3
 L.A. 27 Jun 2022
In reply to TomA_93: Interesting that your peak choices for first time Himalayan climbers with relatively little big mountain experience is so disparate. 

Thamserku and Singhu Chuli are difficult multi day climbs Thamserku in particular has only had a handful of ascents.  Id suggest that you research these two peaks an awful lot more and perhaps reassess them as being suitable objectives for your group. 

Chulu Far E is an easy day route from base camp and not really worth going all that way for.  The other Chulus, Central ,West and East are more worthwhile ascents in that area

Lobuche E is regularly guided with plenty of info and videos available on it

Post edited at 17:44
OP TomA_93 28 Jun 2022
In reply to Moacs:

Hi Moacs,

Apologies if it has come across this way, there certainly isn't anything disingenuous about my request.

I do run guided hillwalking in the UK, but this expedition is in the scope of my day job in the Army. I am in a position where I can organise some Adventure Training, so I want to use my passion for a positive change in my Regiment. There isn't a client, this is an idea I have pitched and had the approval to continue planning.

Best,

Tom

OP TomA_93 28 Jun 2022
In reply to L.A.:

Hi L.A. thanks for your reply.

Nepal is somewhere I have no experience with personally, so the peaks were chosen based on personal interest and what I could find. I am of course more than open to guidance on better peaks for a relatively inexperienced group.

Can you suggest any sources for research?

 a crap climber 28 Jun 2022
In reply to TomA_93:

Wondered if it was something to do with the forces, your language kinda suggested so in the op.

> The aim of the expedition is to set the foundations for a future mountaineering association within the organisation

You are presumably already aware that there is already a mountaineering association in the army, imaginatively named the Army Mountaineering Association? They run semi regular Himalayan trips, so might be worth seeing if there's anyone with previous experience who can offer some pointers? 

I started writing a longer post asking a few questions, as some of the wording in your op gives pause for thought, suggesting perhaps a very keen but not very experienced subby who might be about to bite off more than he can chew... I'm just a lowly former STAB with no Himalayan experience though, so not really my place to be questioning anything. 

Either way, well done for getting your CoC to sign off on this and best of luck with it.

 L.A. 29 Jun 2022
In reply to TomA_93: As A Crap Climber suggests try the AMA.

As a starter for your research with them the AMA attempted all the Nepali trekking peaks in 1999 as part of the 'Millenium Quest' failing on a few of them. Im sure if you get a hold of that report you'll be able to weedle out which are and arent suitable for a military based group of limited big mountain experience. Also Jamie McGuiness has done a brief summary of most of the NMA Trekking Peaks on his Project Himalaya site. The Alpine Club Himalayan Index can also be useful

Good luck with it Doing the research and planning is half the fun.

OP TomA_93 30 Jun 2022
In reply to L.A.:

That's fantastic thank you. I'll come back if there are any further questions. I am sure many will understand the fruits of trying a few different sources for info...

 ExiledScot 30 Jun 2022
In reply to Moacs:

Give them a little info, but don't feed them the whole programme, it sounds like a baby officer expedition, or officer cadet type exped.. they need to learn to research and organise for the sake of the people they'll command! 

Op. My advice would be go to south America instead, get yourself and your team on as many JS AT courses as you can between now and then. If you have an active exped / goal you'll get priority on places over everyone other than those who need mountain skills in their primary role. 

Post edited at 20:26

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