Ecrins Winter alternatives

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 geoff.comley 06 Jan 2022

Happy New Climbing Year! 

I'm (covid dependant) Ecrins bound in search of ice but as conditions seem a bit thin currently i'm looking for any advice for some decent dry tooling venues, easy access high ice routes and any ideal first winter alpine peaks. 

I'm experienced in Scotland but alpine experience is limited to 2 summer and 1 winter ice climbing trips. Learning to ski is the current plan b, but climbing is my main goal over there. 

Appreciate any advice 

Thanks!

In reply to geoff.comley:

Hi Geoff,

As you said conditions are a bit thin at the moment, we had a great start to the season for ice and a below average for snow, but we have just had a long warm spell with warm night which has played havoc with the conditions. We are just returning to normal temps and hopefully have some more snow coming.

When and which part of the Écrins are you heading to? in Near Briancon then there is some dry tooling on a sector of Rocher Barron (not the three rock climbing sectors) there is a for one for tooling, there maybe a topo on line, there is also a venue in Nevache valley can't remember the name.

For high route I event been keep up on conditions, but the best guide book is the seb Constant Snow and Mixed climb (you can get it in English). 

The ice climbing festival starts soon, and the guides who work it are all out looking for the best places so there maybe an update soon.

There is enough snow for the resorts to be open, and if you plan right its ok for touring. 

 Doug 07 Jan 2022
In reply to ecrinscollective:

Just to add to Rob's comments, its been pretty cold here in the Champsaur for the past few days (-10° yesterday mid-morning) & its just started to snow with more forecast over the next few days.

OP geoff.comley 07 Jan 2022

Thank you for the updates guys, Appreciate it! 

@ecrinscollective - We're heading to Ceillac first couple of days and then staying near la grave for rest of the trip. But we have a car so can travel to wherever the climbs are. I'll check out the dry tooling 

Here's to the festival being a success next week!


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