In reply to jon:
> Yes, doesn't strike me as someone who'd accept stuff like that.
I think Doug is a mix of all sorts of attitudes and natures, like most of us, but he's been quite public within his field so is judged publicly, on just a few things, which will never be accurate over all.
I only started climbing in 1992 but even then in existing literature I remember Doug and Chris Bonington being positioned as these kind of opposites, Bonners the old school bit-posh Expedition Leader type climber with all the accompanying sniggers about professionalism and sponsors and favouritism etc, while Doug was the soul climber mystic who left all the old stuff behind, the anti-establishment Buddhist vegetarian climbing lightweight around the world with mates.
But in reality Bonington has done some great routes in alpine style, was actually a bloody good climber, and Doug's most famous success came on one of the biggest fixed-rope sieges of them all. And as for his politics, Mao hat firmly on, he's famous for saying "Democracy's no good if you have to vote on it, youth!".
But beyond that, him and Chris are good friends, have been for decades and would still go out climbing together 20 years after Everest SW face.