Dolomites, Cima Grande, Dibona Arete

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 Mark123 24 Jul 2019

I'm heading to the Dolomites next week. I'm just myself so  I'll be mainly limited to via ferrata, apart from the day that I've booked a guide to climb the Dibona Arete on Cima Grande.  Looks a magnificent route, and the grade (UIAA IV+) should be OK for me in good conditions. However I'm a bit concerned about reports of loose rock and stonefall in some logged ascents . Anyone had recent experience of this route?  Another option  would be to ascend the Normal Route (III+) on the south face, although this looks a far less challenging route, and its often the descent for the other Cima Grande routes. Any advice on the pros and cons of doing these 2 routes next week, in particular stonefall? (I've got the James Rushworth's guide to the Dolomites).

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 chris687 24 Jul 2019
In reply to Mark123:

There is loose rock on the Dibona but mostly higher up. There is an option to traverse off the route before the loose sections though. I'd recommend this having gone straight up before. Your guide should have the answers for you. Rocks are most likely to be dislodged by your own rope on the upper sections (unless it's raining etc.)

You'll descend the normal route anyway so you may as well go up an interesting way. It's a cool route. 

In reply to chris687:

Climbing wise, the rock is good up to the ring band terrace, where as suggested in the guide it's best to traverse to an alternative finish to reach the summit,  the route we took here was still littered with loose rock but easy ground.

That said the entire route has potential for rock fall from above, I learned a valuable lesson in putting your helmet on well before reaching the base of the route!! Very near miss while running the ropes when a novice client casualy kicked a load of loose rock down on us to clear the ledge he was standing on. It's busy and guided parties move fast as no route finding issues and they don't place any gear,  just clip in situ pegs! Start early,  and stay vigilant... it's a great route!

The descent is hard to follow, especially for teams trying it for the first time late in the day,  it's actually a good line on big features when viewed from the approach but much harder when on the wall,  will not be an issue with a guide.

 Pero 25 Jul 2019
In reply to Mark123:

One reason to hire a guide is that he or she will know the local conditions and make a decision on what is safe to climb.

OP Mark123 25 Jul 2019
In reply to Mark123:

Thanks for everyone's useful advice, much appreciated.

OP Mark123 05 Aug 2019
In reply to Mark123:

Climbed the Dibona route last week and used the ring band terrace to summit Cima Grande and avoid the loose rock. It's a long, very exposed and  superb climb.  I'm immensely pleased I did it, even though I required a guide. 


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