Climbing 6000m+ peaks in Nepal without guides?

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 Aeon 28 Oct 2021

What's the current situation in Nepal regarding climbing 6000m+ peaks on the Trekking List without a guide and not on a commercial expedition? Has Nepal now banned all activity without a nominal guide employed? We are not at all against making a contribution to the local economy and or paying local outfits but would rather climb alone and make our own arrangements for a modest base camp and security. 

I once dropped a rucksack climbing on a 6000m peak in Nepal. When I went to get a police report for the insurance claim the officer asked me who my Nepali guide was. When I explained that I didn't need one he explained that I clearly did, as I'd been incompetent enough to drop my sack. Couldn't argue with that...

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 sheffieldchris 29 Oct 2021
In reply to Aeon:

Not a 1000% sure if any new rules have come in but you could climb without a guide in 2017.

Things to consider though,

How important is your time to cost ratio, lots of time possible to do yourself, (helps if you have been to Nepal before though)

Less time you may be better with the services of a tour company to organize permits and any permissions. Local will be cheaper in Kathmandu.

Do you plan to carry all your own kit including food the whole way.

Who is going to cook your food at a base camp. A dinning tent is a god send.

Yaks can carry a lot of kit, you however will be knackered before you even put your climbing kit on, never mind actually getting to the top of anything, if you attempt to carry all your kit and food ect.
 

Having tried both self sufficient and assisted approach results were

DIY zero peaks climbed, assisted 2x 6000 meter peaks climbed.
 

Only you can decide which is more important to you, suffering for the sake of being all macho and potentially getting little done (unless of course you are some kind of fitness/climbing ninja)

Or get a tour company to provide the base camp facilities, you will probably get a main man who is also a guide but then it is up to you if you actually use them as a guide to get you up the mountain.

 sheffieldchris 29 Oct 2021
In reply to Aeon:

On another side note made the mistake of not checking your profile before replying to this thread.

I don't normally reply if a poster does not have a profile.

Please make the effort to give everyone a little understanding of your level of experience and knowledge.

Could be you are a qualified BMG and you and your other guide mates are wanting to go new routing on some amazing peak. Most of my reply will then be bollocks for you.

 Derry 29 Oct 2021
In reply to Will_Thomas_Harris:

> I once dropped a rucksack climbing on a 6000m peak in Nepal. When I went to get a police report for the insurance claim the officer asked me who my Nepali guide was. When I explained that I didn't need one he explained that I clearly did, as I'd been incompetent enough to drop my sack. Couldn't argue with that...

so by that police logic, if you had a guide, and dropped your pack off a 6000m peak, is the guide then responsible for the insurance claim and our general numptiness? Asking for a friend of course... I've never, ever dropped my pack down a large scree slope adding an extra 6 hours to the approach. 


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