In reply to Offwidth:
> No one seems to care properly about getting lower grades right. A big part of the guidebook market is getting pretty poor treatment.Well protected 5.6 in the US is typically HS 4b on UK trad. If the route is 5.6X in Joshua Tree the route could be E1 4c.We desperately need to define some grade standards so people know what to expect and sort out these grading tables.The point Jon raises about The Walker Spur is even worse at lower grades on big alpine routes given often similar objective dangers and worse grade consistency. Sports grade translations in contrast normally flatter, yet the graded routes in question can be desperate, so just plain graded wrong.It's not just routes: I will likely be indoor bouldering around V1 later today on colour circuit problems that are supposed to start at V3. Some people are going to get a big shock when they first go outdoors.
I have been climbing for almost fifty years now and was initially going to post that I still do not understand grades.
On reflection I will alter this, that I only expect grades to be consistent in one area and on one type of climb.
Don't try to compare crack and slab, protection variability or outcrop and mountain routes.
Alpine grades are normally formulated by the locals who have a different perception asnd background of the various factors contributing to the grade of a route, altitude, remoteness, conditions,hardest move, ease of retreat,overall difficulty, objective dangers. They ignore some aspects, have different views on others, all to the confusion of Johnny Englander.
Just treat it as part of the fun of it all.
Top Tip. Do not try to stretch your grade in the mountains. The advice on Cloggy being a place to practice your skills not develop them is applicable here.
A broken ankle is far easier to deal with on Stanage than at 3 or 4000 meters.
Don't be too proud to frig your way out of trouble, an essential alpine skill.