UKH

Hi, after having a week or so of fun end of June/ start of July. Would welcome any ideas for routes that are fun, classic must do's. Big Thanks.

The area is littered with routes at those grades so it's really hard to give advice. My must-do's could be totally different from yours, dependent on preferences and styles. I'd recommend trying to get a hold of the Rockfax Chamonix guidebook. I just bought one for an upcoming trip in the same period and it has sparked the imagination, to say the least...

Frendo Spur, Cosmiques Arete, North Spur of the Chardonnet, North face of the Tour Ronde, Papillons Arete, Pyramid Du Tacul.  Several routes on the rock triangle of Mont Blanc Du Tacul. These are all routes I have done and can recommend.

Alpine rock, or 'proper' alpine?

Hi Dave,

Obviously conditions dependent. For a climber of your calibre here are a few ideas:

Royal Traverse

Frontier Ridge ( Kuffner ) on Maudit

Migot Spur on Chardonnet

Whymper Couloir on the Verte

South Ridge on the Moine

Mer de Glace on the Grepon

I think you've done the Republique?

Lepidopteres followed by the normal route on the Peigne ( or Papillons and the Peigne if travelling fast )

Midi Plan traverse

Rochefort Ridge ( add Dents de Geant )

If the weather looks iffy consider basing at the Torino hut where there are many short less committing routes to fit into weather windows such as Entreves, Tour Rondes, Marbrees, Toules, Roi de Siam

Several great quick access routes on the Tacul North Face such as the Contamine routes - check out descent conditions on Tacul as you may need to descend by abseil via the Chere Couloir

To my shame I don't know the Italian side but supposedly awesome routes there, I'm sure someone will come along shortly and mention their highlights.

Might see you out there...

Chamonix hit 31 degrees today (a record for May).  Clearly it can all change but the window for some of the snow routes that have been suggested may be even shorter than normal this year.  The Whymper couloir has been done a lot in the past few weeks, the Kuffner is being done.  Conditions are really a month ahead already.  The rock routes that have been suggested should be ok whatever.  I would add into the mix the Renaudie on the Requin.  Not in Rockfax! A long rock climb at about mild VS with a short snow/ice approach.  Very little fixed gear.  You will probably be on your own.  Very good abseil descent (newly equipped I hear).  Its a similar length and grade to the République VN without the impossible bit at the top.

I would add into the mix the Renaudie on the Requin.  Not in Rockfax! A long rock climb at about mild VS with a short snow/ice approach.  Very little fixed gear.  You will probably be on your own.  Very good abseil descent (newly equipped I hear). 
 

Also known as the English mans  bedroom, you don’t get a full English breakfast all inclusive at 5am  , it’s a long route  but good 👍 

yes I think the phrase "English mans  bedroom" has been well applied to lots of routes!  I did the Renaudie in mid sept 16 (with the old ab line and using the hut winter room) and it was certainly a head torch start and finish.  If I was doing it again I would bivi at the start of the rock climbing.  Theres a good flat site there.  Possibly no water but there's snow near by.  Whatever you do its going to be a 3 day hit from the valley unless you are a superman.  Nice recent topo here:

https://passion-alpes.com/2021/11/26/topo-dent-du-requin-3422m-eperon-renau...

OK, just to keep this going, here are some more great classics:

Midi-Plan traverse--long, and made sure snow is solid

Petite Charmoz traverse--haven't done it, but want to!

Rebuffat route on the Eperon des Cosmiqes (not the Aiguille du Midi)

Cool route that combines rock (below) and alpine (above).  Once you get over the A0 crux with some strenuous sling pulling, there are beautiful steep cracks on reddish granite that are just reasonable to climb even if you are not a specialist rock climber.

Keep the conditions updates coming!

Up to date conditions and much more here:

https://www.alpine-guides.com/climb/planning-your-climbing-trip/alpine-clim...

that's a very useful set of links

https://www.montagnes-magazine.com/topos-aiguille-argentiere-arete-charlet-...

"The least frequented route to the top of the Aiguille d'Argentière" according to ENSA (and not in Rockfax)

New edition of Chamonix Rockfax comes out early July.

Some routes to consider of that grade that would be good early Julyish:

• Papillon Arete to SW ridge of the Peigne
• Midi-Plan Traverse
• Cosmiques Arete
• Entreves Traverse or Marbrees
• Tour Ronde N face
• Kuffner
• Dent du Geant various routes
• Rochefort Arete (can extend to traverse the whole Jorasses too by staying in Canzio - one of the best D grade routes in the massif)
• Dru Traverse
• Fleche Rousse on Argentiere
• Forbes Arete
• Migot spur
• Dorees traverse
• Diable Traverse
• Frendo Spur
• Table Arete on the Tour
• Innominata
• Royal Traverse
• Moine S ridge
• Courtes and Droites traverses
• Whymper/Couturier Verte (best check for up to date info as they might be a bit late in the season by then)
• Arete du Jardin Verte
• GM ridge Verte
• Ecandies
• Perron Traverse
• Mer de Glace Face Grepon
• Republique normal route
• Contamine routes Tacul Triangle
• Chere couloir Tacul 

Hope that helps.

Nice list!  Heres an even longer one!

https://www.camptocamp.org/articles/302774/en/less-difficult-alpine-routes-...

Thanks everyone for a great set of suggestions. We will make sure we knock a few off