UKH

Hi, a colleague with much greater Alpine experience than myself has asked whether I would be interested in doing this route with him in 2019. So before committing I am undertaking some research for myself, and yes I have read the guide and have done a search in the threads.  However, what I am hoping for is any more recent Beta or info as the last discussion I could find was from 2013.

From my understanding (it's high up on my list of things to do), the challenge might be finding it in condition!

There is more recent info in the logbooks on here.

I did the original start route in 1978, so can't give you any updates. After the initial buttress, which was not easy to navigate in the dark, a lot of folk bypassed on the left then, most of the rest is 35 degree snow or ice. How steep or hard the seracs at the top are can be critical. I found an easy angled ramp but the blue ice was rock hard and dinner plating.

If you get good weather and reasonable conditions you should be OK but how are you at altitude ?  Can you maintain a good pace for 1300 metres with a paper bag over your head

Yeh that might be a problem, but thats something we will have to assess closer to the time. There will be back-up objectives, but this is a clear long standing itch for my potential partner on this.

Rick, so far I have been fine in the Alps, always taken the time to acclimatise! Will have a search of the log books and have a read through. Thanks for the pointer.

Plan B (you always need one) something like the Innominata?

Might be of interest; video (not mine) of the route from June 2017, using the alternate (or usual now?) start up the Gussfeldt couloir.

youtube.com/watch?v=_ceMi8IMCdc&

Thanks dave, will have a watch later at Home. Works Internet connection does not allow me to view youtube.

Isn't that an order of magnitude more committing?

Similar I would have thought. Both long routes at altitude which would be a pain to reverse but not technically difficult. 

Although very different styles and the approach to the Innominata is much more uphill!

Yes, different style so one could be in condition when the other isn't. That was my thinking anyway.