UKH

I'm planning a trip combining trekking and 6000m peaks in nepal in Oct/Nov. We're planning on a 1000km distance, so we're keen to keep weight down. are double boots necessary (mera, lobuche East,Parchamo, Larkya Peak)? or could we get away with lighter boots. I want to use running shoes on much of it.  Also would a lighter-weight tent suffice rather than the expedition ones generally used?  Just wondering how best to do this.

1.5-type boots that have a thin sock-like inner would be good. Similar weight to singles but for overnights a removable inner, and little/no leather to soak up moisture. Arcteryx Acrux and the Mammut 6000s are like this. I did 6000m peaks in Nepal in singles 20 years ago and it's fine, don't fall for the hype but do take advantage of the newer, lighter gear especially boots and crampons.

And yeah, there's no way you need a full VE25-style tent. Something with a good UV pedigree, probably self standing. Something like the Hilleberg Allak tents. Could obviously go lighter but beyond a point you lose livability for longer trips.

Wouldn't say double boots are essential. Cold feet are often a symptom of a cold core though, so it depends on how cold you get generally and on what you're wearing generally. Double boots have the obvious advantage that you can keep the liners in a warm place during the night so that you're not putting on a pair of boots that resemble concrete first thing. Sometimes an argument for taking gear you are familiar with on these sort of trips as you'll know its limitations, rather than buy a load of gear that might create new unforeseen issues.

Tent-wise, you definitely don't need a full expedition tent. Semi-geodesic maybe? Probably depends on where you plan to use the tent. A single skin isn't a great all round option for example. 

Thanks. I have a pair of these - https://www.scarpa.co.uk/mountain/ribelle-tech-20-hd/. Do you reckon they would suffice? They are an absolute pain to put on and take off though, being a real squeeze to get the foot through the top bit and into the boot .

Thanks BL. would appreciate your comment on these - https://www.scarpa.co.uk/mountain/ribelle-tech-20-hd/. I like them in terms of comfort and they are very light for a mountaineering boot.  Its just getting them on and off thats a pain. I suffer with most rigid boots from a rubbing on my shin so these avoid that by having the soft upper.

I have those boots. They’re incredibly light weight. Superb on rocky Alpine routes in summer, but they have very little insulation in them. You wouldn’t even use them in Scotland in winter, never mind the Himalayas.

If you’re trying to keep things light for a bigger trip maybe hire double boots in Namche or Kathmandu for when you need them? 

Thanks Tom. I have used them in scotland in the winter, but there again I'm used to just fell shoes in the scottish winter for up to 48 hours! Point taken about the Himalaya though.

My feet we cold inside plastics on Island / Mera / Lobuche...my advice would be not to scrimp too much on weight when it comes to boots on 6000m+ peaks. 

I have a pair of these, I wouldn’t recommend them for the Himalayas, even in Scotland in winter I keep them for fast moving days, which is what they are designed for ( think Kilian Jornet does CMD)  I used old School Nepal’s for island peak without issue but again that was pretty fast moving with minimal faff.

on another note try not to buy stuff you can’t realistically  use elsewhere, big jackets are a classic, your better of buying a Rab neutrino and a Patagonia nano puff and using them together when it gets cold rather than spending the same amount on a jacket your only going to wear for 3/4 nights at base camp.

I wouldn't. They'll be fine for maybe 50% of the climbing but a risk for the rest. Aside from weather, on heavily trafficked peaks you're likely to spend time waiting for others where you'll cool down, and late in the year with shorter days there's also the likelihood of starts/finishes in the dark. 

If it were me I'd be looking at the array of singles with integrated gaiter that are about now. I'd also be taking some socks just for the climbing, that don't get used for the trek, Primaloft/wool blend I think is the go.

I wouldn't. They'll be fine for maybe 50% of the climbing but a risk for the rest. Aside from weather, on heavily trafficked peaks you're likely to spend time waiting for others where you'll cool down, and late in the year with shorter days there's also the likelihood of starts/finishes in the dark. 

If it were me I'd be looking at the array of singles with integrated gaiter that are about now. I'd also be taking some socks just for the climbing, that don't get used for the trek, Primaloft/wool blend I think is the go.

big boots it is then. thanks for all the replies.