UKH

Does anyone have any information about Bhemdang Ri, also known as Morimoto Peak, 6150m, in the Langtang valley? The Himalayan Database shows it was first ascended in 1964, but I haven't been able to find any information about the route. 'Morimoto Base Camp' is marked on some maps, near Pagari Goldum, which would suggest an approach from the Southeast, and then probably ascent by the East ridge from the col at 5498m.

In reply to mikefergy:

From the east, yes.

http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12196546401

As that article notes, there is considerable confusion over names in that part of Langtang.

In reply to mikefergy:

'We also made the first ascent of Kyungka Peak (22,900 feet), which is located at the middle part of the Langtrang Glacier. Kondo, Sasaki and a Sherpa climbed to the summit on May 8 from the eastern glacier. [Editor's note: This peak is actually Pemthang Ri (Bemdang Rig), 6,150m, often called Morimoto Peak.] '

Ready to be confused ?  Right off we go....

That huge height discrepancy between 6150M and 22900' is due to older maps and the NMA giving the height for Morimoto as 6750m instead of 6150m. Probably mistaking it for Pemthang Ri. ?

Personally Im certain that the Pemthang Ri name for Morimoto Peak given in that Japanese report is incorrect, Pemthang Ri is usually given as 6757m and is a really difficult looking peak on the ridge out from Penthang Karpo Ri.(also known as Dome Blanc.) 

Pemthang Karpo (without the Ri) itself is actually a yak grazing area. Its also more usually known as Morimoto Base Camp so that may be where the confusion stems from.

Still with me ?  

Paulo Grobel has done some stuff in that part of the Langtang Valley perhaps check out his blog or contact him ?

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07-08w/newswire-nepal-french-gurkarpo-ri 

As Damo says, there is lots of confusion over names and locations of peaks in that part of the valley. Personally Id just head up to Morimoto BC and find something that looks suitable. Or if you can fight your way up to Tilmans Col (An utter bastard of a slog that you'll remember for the rest of your life along with some awkward route finding from the Langtang side) Urkinman Peak (lots of different spellings of this too) looked to be not too bad from Tilmans Col itself. Or just enjoy Naya Kanga and some of the peaks in the lower Langtang valley.

Good luck with it 

In reply to L.A.:

Thanks Damo and L.A. There certainly seems to be some confusion about peak names & locations in that area... I've seen pictures of a 6707m peak to the West marked as Morimoto too...

Heading to Morimoto BC and looking for something suitable sounds like it might be the best plan - I think we'll aim to acclimatise on Yala Peak, then head to Morimoto BC, see what we can do there, and keep Naya Kanga & Ganja La Peak as backup plans.

In reply to mikefergy: Baden-Powell Peak aka Urkema is also well worth a look in the lower Langtang valley.

https://www.summitpost.org/urkema-peak-baden-powell-peak/375435

Enjoy

In reply to mikefergy:

Not a troll, but genuinely curious as someone planning on heading to Nepal to climb for the first time this year:

With permits being required for everything over 5800m, does one get permits for acclimatization peaks as well, or just climb them without a fuss? Likewise for just going to a basecamp and choosing something to climb. If one has a permit for one peak, is it generally allowed to climb neighboring lower our alternative peaks?

Again, just a dumb question from a Nepal newbie.

In reply to aliebling:

Yes, if you're going by the book, and your acclimatization peaks are over 5800m.

If one has a permit for one peak, is it generally allowed to climb neighboring lower our alternative peaks?

Officially, no. In the old (old) days if you had a permit for an 8000er then lower neighbours were considered fair game, but that has not been the case for years.

As for alternatives, if your peak/route are out of condition or you change your mind, you can't just pick a more feasible alternative. There are occasions where your LO can arrange permission for you to do something else, but this is pretty rare.

It looks like it will be a lot easier to climb in Nepal in 2020, with permit fees being waived for all but the highest summits.  Not much detail in this news article, but worth a read.  

https://kathmandupost.com/money/2019/12/20/zero-climbing-fees-to-boost-visi...?

For a good source of local knowledge and ideas I hope you don't mind me mentioning Lopsang Sherpa, IFMGA.    sherpalopsang13@gmail.com

In reply to ADavis:

While it's admirable they're doing something, the reality is the peak fee is now just a small portion of the overall cost of an expedition. Shared between a few climbers, it will only knock a few hundred dollars, at most, off the several thousand dollars most trips cost. It would be much more significant if they got rid of the LO system they have.