UKH

After the attempt of Breithorn last year (we were unable to make the summit due to time constraints due to being out of season - no huts open or ski lifts working etc) we are going back to make a second attempt BUT - I am now thinking that Allalinhorn would be a much better option than Breithorn. 

We also intend on doing Mont Balnc in 2024, and we're considering if this can be done without a guide, so as part of the experiment we're thinking of climbing up to the Gouter Hut to see how
it goes. 

Any tips for Allalinhorn or the Gouter Hut welcome. 

The Allalinhorn and the Breithorn regularly get suggested as the easiest 4000ers because you can get very close from the lifts. That is true, I think. Not sure exactly what you tried last year but if the lifts aren't running I wouldn't have said they were particularly easy, and if the lifts are running they're not really good practice for the long days required for Mont Blanc, if that's what you're working towards.

On the Allalinhorn in particular, I would say that the glacier is getting much worse recently, and it might be a bit exciting if you're not used to that sort of thing. But equally on a good day there will be a steady stream of people so it won't be too adventurous.

If you want something with a 4000m summit, Lagginhorn or Weissmies (from the south) would be good over a few days, with some easy scrambling but not much in the way of glacier crossing.

We started our walk to Breithorn form Cervina - we made it to Passo di Venitina Sud (approx. 12,00ft) - took 15 hours of solid walking (up and down).

I suppose the walk up was somewhat "unspectacular" as most of the route has been demolished
to make way for ski slopes... 

From the top lift you are up and down in under 4hrs.  There is always a well worn, busy trail but it's on a proper glacier so a good intro to wet glacier travel.  Going up from Britannia Hut is more challenging, adding in a glacier crossing in the dark and a bit of easy climbing at the summit. This route will typically take 4hrs to summit if you're acclimatised reasonably well and 1.5hrs to descend the normal route to the top lift.

If you want a longer snow plod (which you seem to be fit for) then Strahlhorn (from Britannia Hut) will give you a lot more glacier travel experience. I've no idea what state the glaciers will be in at Aug 2023.

I found the biggest challenge of glacier travel to be the difficult transition between wet and dry glacier.  This was always somewhat terrifying for me... probably to a large extent down the questionable holding power of my lightweight Mrs at the other end of the rope.

As with all long flatish glaciers the Strahlhorn is a monotonous trudge on foot as far as I am concerned.  Learn to ski and do it in spring.  Much more fun

But great training for other “monotonous trudges on foot”.  

If that took 15 hrs, I'd be cautious trying a 4000m peak without doing some lower routes first to get a feel things.

I think there have been articles about Allalinhorn on here in the past couple of years - the widescreen photo ones.

Change of plan...

My work have told me they want to fund a guided accent up Mont Blanc... that was quite unexpected... I'm a bit nervous now! 

Recruiting new staff is a costly business, cheaper for them just to try and keep you alive I suppose.