UKH

We are headed out for a weeks climbing and wondering if anyone has any update on conditions?

Original plan was the routes on the Montets ridge such as Farron but just heard the cable car is out! Now thinking of the routes like Fil à Plomb, Col du Plan North Couloir or the Gabarrou-Albinoni or such like on the East face of Mont Blanc Du du Tacul. 

We'll be on foot / snow shoes unfortunately...

Many thanks in advance

Mike

Fil a Plomb isn't complete, Neither is the G-A or Modica Noury. Successive dry summers and autumns have left the mountains really bare and there's not much mixed or ice in condition at the moment unfortunately. If there isn't a wet spring and we have another hot and dry summer there's a good chance the damage to some of these classic routes will be permanent. On the bright side there's always rock climbing though.

Pelissier gully could be an option and can be done in drier conditions (there can be nasty rock fall if it has been too hot for a wile though). Mallory Porter is getting done lots right now, but it's a bit easier.

The Ecrin is good at the moment, we've been climbing between 2-3000m N facing ice routes as long as they're pretty hidden from the sun.  It's looking good higher up but I've not been up to inspect yet.  Stable snow pack for skiing in/out too.

Hi Mike,

How did you get on ?

Cheers

Neil