Aiguille du Moine - South Ridge

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 hairy51 12 Aug 2018

Hi All, 

Aiguille de Moine 

After a bit of beta on those that have done the South Ridge of the Aiguille du Moine. I did the normal route a few years ago and thoroughly enjoyed it and I am now eyeing up the South Ridge route as a bit more of a challenge.  The 'Classic & Plaisir' guide I have gives it D IV+ with the pitched bits shown as up to 4c in the topo. Rockfax gives it D+ 5c. I'm guessing that there are two variations to the route? With regards to trad experience, I'd be looking at something no harder than VS (HVS at a push).

Advice welcome!

Cheers

J

 

Post edited at 17:23
 John Cuthbert 12 Aug 2018
In reply to hairy51:

It's super steady, mostly less than VS, but there is one chimney pitch which felt english 5a to me, but VS 5a.

Super classic route.

 

John C

In reply to hairy51:

I did the standard S Ridge (not the Integrale) about 35 years ago, and I don't remember it being anywhere near VS, except for one very short pitch of about 20 feet that was probably 4c (English) for a few moves, but felt harder in big boots. But very short-lived, a kind of boulder-problem type thing unlike anything else on the route. Perhaps one or two little patches of v diff to severe on the whole route, but mostly much easier, mere scrambling.

1
OP hairy51 13 Aug 2018
In reply to hairy51:

Great stuff, thanks for the info both. Sounds like it could be a good option...

 jon 13 Aug 2018
In reply to hairy51:

There's a short steep crack just as you get on to the ridge, then a longish chimney where you move around on to the left side of the ridge which is probably the one John Cuthbert mentions. A little further on is the short wall Gordon mentions which has the hardest move on the route. All the rest is much easier and can mostly be done moving together one way or another, depending on how you feel. If the route is completely snow free you can leave axe, crampons and boots on the ledge at the start where the route leaves the ordinary route and climb in rock boots. If they're comfy, of course...

Post edited at 16:05
OP hairy51 15 Aug 2018
In reply to hairy51:

Thanks for the info all. Definitely sounds like a good option. 


Cheers


J


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