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Sweden Climbing

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 Jpinnegor 04 May 2017
Hi there,

A group of friends and I are thinking of heading Sweden early August for a week.

Just after a bit of help.

Can anyone recommend a guidebook and crags they have climbed..
Thinking of basing ourselves in the gothenburg area?
And any other tips would be most appreciated.

Cheers,

Jack
 Mark Kemball 04 May 2017
In reply to Jpinnegor:

I woud highly recommend the Bohuslan area, about 100 miles north of Gothenburg. Granite domes, mainly single pitch trad crack climbs. I spent a week there last summer. Overview of area here - https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/map/?q=VASTRA+GOTALAND+COUNTY&x=12.7...

There is a good local guidebook, in Swedish with English introductions to the individual crags, I don't have mine to hand as I've lent it to a friend for a trip this summer, but copies were available in the local supermarket. A quick google has not helped me find it! There is also a superb hut, belonging to the local climbing club, but again, I can't find the info easily.
 Mark Kemball 04 May 2017
In reply to Jpinnegor:

More info - http://www.bohuskk.se/
 summo 04 May 2017
In reply to Jpinnegor:

http://www.highsport.se/butik/produkt/Klattring-i-Goteborg-med-omnejd
https://27crags.com/areas/327#57.69920000000002,12.223792382812462,10z,

I would recommend a day South down at kullen, the stuff nearer town and days North at Bohuslän as said above. Lots of stuff on line, this is a reasonable summary http://www.mountain-spirit-guides.com/blog/trad-climbing-bohuslan/

There is stuff inland towards Borås, but best crags are nearer the coast.

Most of Sweden shuts down in July, so finding accommodation other than camping will be tough from mid summer onwards. In August it gets quieter.
 Droyd 04 May 2017
In reply to summo:

> I would recommend a day South down at kullen

I'd respectfully disagree with this, on the basis that the routes at Kullaberg are generally less solid than the ones at Gogarth South Stack and frequently make Stanage ones look towering - I lived an hour from there for two years and, while there are routes that are worthwhile, they're certainly not of interest to an international visitor, particularly as compared to Bohus. If, however, you're driving up to Gothenburg through Germany and Denmark, and so find yourself driving up the E6, it might just be worth calling in as it is, to be fair, a beautiful spot. The guidebook is Swedish-only and can be picked up at outdoor shops (Naturkompaniet is the main one) in Malmö, Lund, and Helsingborg, although there is an online topo: http://www.sverigeforaren.se/listing/kullaberg/
There are several crags that are accessible from Gothenburg city centre, with a good mix of trad and sport (and some mixed routes), but Bohuslän is an hour north and far, far better - easily as good as the Peak in terms of quantity and quality of single-pitch crags. Some of the best are Häller, Hallinden, Galgeberget, and wonderful routes include Prismaster (n6-), Bergkirstis polska (n6-), and Tor line (n7). The guidebook can be picked up at the Tempo supermarket in Brodalen, which is right in the middle of Bohuslän (if I remember right you can see Häller, one of the main crags, from its car park), and the local club hut (run by Bohusläns Klätterklubb) is located here: https://www.google.co.uk/maps/place/58%C2%B029'51.7%22N+11%C2%B028...
It's possible to camp in the garden or pay more to sleep in the hut (obviously dependent on how busy it is), and there's pretty much always room to camp, even on Swedish bank holidays. Anyone and everyone there will be extremely willing to provide crag/route advice, and it's very sociable and friendly.
It's probably worth mentioning that Bohuslän doesn't have much for people operating below 6- (roughly HVS/E1), and if you're not good at jamming you'll have a hard time - and/or adapt quickly. More importantly, it should be noted that getting hold of beer/alcohol in Sweden can be tricky - Systembolaget is the one shop that sells it, and is only open 9-5, Monday-Saturday. If I remember correctly, the nearest branch is half an hour from the BKK hut, so if you like a nice beer after a day's climbing be sure to plan ahead!

If you need any other information, feel free to email me.
 Mark Kemball 04 May 2017
In reply to Jpinnegor:

Bought beer from the Tempo supermarket in Brodalen last June / July.
 Droyd 04 May 2017
In reply to Mark Kemball:
Apologies - it's possible to buy 3.5% and below beer and cider in supermarkets, but you need to go to Systemet for the real stuff.
Post edited at 15:32
 summo 04 May 2017
In reply to Droyd:

We can agree to disagree on kullaberg, plenty good solid routes, our kids first outdoor routes were there. I see it as a mini Gower. As for loose, having climbed a fair bit at places like ogmore, my loose-o-meter might be calibrated a little differently to yours.

You are correct on the grade range in places though, many crags have little or nothing in the 5 and below range as I've discovered in looking for good crags for kids.
1
 TobyA 04 May 2017
In reply to summo:

The crag behind the church in Bohuslan has a good selection of easier routes, an the one near the zoo.
 summo 04 May 2017
In reply to TobyA:

> The crag behind the church in Bohuslan has a good selection of easier routes, an the one near the zoo.

Yeah. I've hunted most of them out now thanks. We have a friend who works at nordens ark, so it's quite convenient. Planning on a few trips there this summer and might base ourselves near there if I do the mtb race at Uddevalla in july.
 Mr. Lee 04 May 2017
In reply to Jpinnegor:

Bohuslän Bohuslän Bohuslän. World class climbing on perfect granite. Really no decision if you're after trad and don't have infinite time to visit everywhere. I added some ticklists for Bohuslän at various grades if you do a search on here. So many crags and routes in the area that it can be a bit overwhelming for a first timer. The ticklists should give you some direction. If your best onsight is HVS then you're probably looking at up to 5+. A lot of the classic 6- routes are more like E1 in Bohuslän (grading is often quite hard).
 Mark Kemball 04 May 2017
In reply to Mr. Lee:

> Bohuslän (grading is often quite hard).

Yes, called in on our way back from Lofoten - n6 there = n6- Boshuslan.

OP Jpinnegor 05 May 2017
Excellent guys, this is all very helpful stuff.

Im v keen for this, much rather be in Sweden than dying in the heat of a french summer haha.

Just got to get everyone to agree on dates!

Thanks guys


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