Literary Route Names

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 Andy Clarke 20 Jan 2019

I imagine many of those into their climbing history will know that the name of the classic Cornish E5 Darkinbad the Brightdayler (E5 6a) is a direct quotation from James Joyce's modernist classic, Ulysses. It occurs on page 693, as Bloom is drifting off to sleep. Here's a taste:

Going to dark bed there was a square round Sinbad the Sailor roc's auk's egg in the night of the bed of all the auks of the rocs of Darkinbad the Brightdayler.

Given that this is the end of the penultimate chapter, I think we can assume that Pat Littlejohn read the whole thing! There are countless routes that riff on the titles of novels, but of course this doesn't prove that the book ever got opened. Are there other route names that are actually quotations from within the text? I'm struggling to make any progress (which is pretty much what would happen if I jumped on Darkinbad!)

 overdrawnboy 20 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Tolkein has been mined to death for route names over the years particularly in the Lakes.

OP Andy Clarke 20 Jan 2019
In reply to overdrawnboy:

Good point - but haven't they generally been characters who recur throughout the text, like the Nazgul? While Darkinbad sounds like a character's name, it's essentially a dreamy deformation of Sinbad the Sailor and only appears once. That's really what I'm thinking about - a phrase that only appears once.

 Dale Berry 20 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Not a quote as such, but Shangri-La (S 4a)is the setting for most of Lost Horizon by James Hilton.

Post edited at 18:53
 overdrawnboy 20 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

"Our Father" and "Kingdom Come"  

In reply to Andy Clarke:

I was quite proud of suggesting the name 'All Quiet' to John Syrett for the diagonal traverse line he was trying across Wall of Horrors, to the left of Western Front at Almscliff. He really liked it, so the project became known as All Quiet a long time before it was first done (I think by Livesey).

In reply to Andy Clarke:

Well I never! I always thought that was a Pat special, something about starting 'Dark and bad and leading to the bright daylight. I started but never finished Ulysses so didn't pick up the reference. Thanks.

PS I have never started the route! Or even  aspired to doing so - well beyond me.

PPS Was it once on the cover of Mountain?

Post edited at 20:24
 DaveHK 20 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

> It occurs on page 693, 

About 692 pages to late for most.

Post edited at 20:31
 Andy Hardy 20 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

"Heart of Darkness" springs to mind.

 HansStuttgart 20 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Saltheart Foamfollower only appears in the book after the readers who are not going to finish it throw the book away

 McHeath 20 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

The Bells, The Bells! (E7 6b) - Quasimodo in "Les Misérables" (I think; I've never read it).

1
Gone for good 20 Jan 2019
In reply to McHeath:

> The Bells, The Bells! (E7 6b) - Quasimodo in "Les Misérables" (I think; I've never read it).

Errrrrr.....Hunchback of Notre Dame maybe?

 climber34neil 20 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Slightly tenouse as it's not part of the text but Four Door Dostoyevsky (8a+)springs to mind

 McHeath 20 Jan 2019
In reply to Gone for good:

Oops, yes of course!

 

 Hat Dude 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Several replies above are book titles or characters rather than quotes.

My offering is "Brave New World" obviously the book title but taken from a Shakespeare quote.

OP Andy Clarke 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Hat Dude:

That got me thinking. Other Shakespeare quotes: To Be or Not to Be (f7A+)All Our Yesterdays (E1 5b)Dogs of War (6a+). So many Shakespeare phrases have entered everyday language that there must be loads more. I might have to put together a ticklist.

 Kean 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Slightly 'off-topic', perhaps, but a route widely considered to be one of the best climbs in the Dolomites is "Lo spigolo del velo della Madonna", a faithful translation of which would be summat like "The edge of the Madonna's veil", which if nothing else is quite poetic. The best rendering of it my Ron James Dolomites guide could come up with was "The Scarf Arete". A tad less romantic, I feel.

In reply to Andy Clarke:

Theres's a Winter of our Discontent (5.10c) in Yosemite and a Winter of Discontent (VS 4c) in Yorkshire.

 planetmarshall 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Ooh, good topic. Would make a good quiz question as it's pretty difficult to use Google.

In reply to Andy Clarke:

The Horror (f7A+) potentially a heart of darkness reference?

 Derek Furze 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Lot's of Jim Perrin's routes of course - Strait Gate, Gate of Horn are examples and then Pat Littlejohn with War and Peace, the Brothers Karamazov although not sure these fit the original brief of being text from within a literary source.  There must be loads, but quite hard to think of them...  Ulysses itself.  

 Derek Furze 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

...and there is a lot of Thomas Hardy in the Lakes - Far from the Madding Crowd, Tess of the D'Urbervilles, Return of the Natives, Jude the Obscure...  mind you, depends on your definition of 'literary' I suppose

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 mbh 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Flipping this on its head, is there a route called "Reader, I married him" ? etc

 

 scope 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

The Frumious Bandersnatch (E7 6c)

A Lewis Caroll creation featuring in Through the Looking Glass and The Hunting of the Snark.

In reply to scope:

And of course there's lots of routes called Jabberwocky.

In reply to Andy Clarke:

There are also loads of routes called Chariots of Fire in the UK, and at least three Arrows of Desire.

 McHeath 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

There's a crag in Nevada which has several "Hamlet" quotes as climb names (I googled "The rest is silence climb" just out of curiosity):

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106949860/the-rest-is-silence

Post edited at 21:18
 john arran 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

I could have sworn I once named a route 'Fletcher Lynd', but UKC doesn't recognise the name so either I imagined having done so or it was in a pretty obscure location that I've since forgotten. Probably the former.

As penance I offer Rien de Rien (7c+), which is a musical reference that isn't actually the song title and is therefore at least in the spirit of your OP.

Edit: Come to think of it, the neighbouring I hope you like jammin' too (6a+) would fit the bill too.

Post edited at 21:38
 planetmarshall 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Thought there probably had to be a few Coleridge references, seen as he invented rock climbing

Water water everywhere but not a drop to drink. (f6B+)

And possibly

Getting Rid of the Albatross (E6 6c)

Post edited at 21:47
 Bulls Crack 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

Gosh loads I'd imagine!

Brave new World, Slaughterhouse 5 Gormenghast, The White Hotel 

Viz Crag with Roger Mellie and The Pathetic Sharks etc 

 planetmarshall 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Bulls Crack:

> Gosh loads I'd imagine!

> Brave new World, Slaughterhouse 5 Gormenghast, The White Hotel 

Yeah those are just titles, though. I think Andy was looking for quotations from the text, something that shows the climber might actually have read the book!

 HansStuttgart 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

No idea whether Kurt Albert was thinking in biblical terms when he opened Offenbarung

OP Andy Clarke 21 Jan 2019
In reply to planetmarshall:

> Yeah those are just titles, though. I think Andy was looking for quotations from the text, something that shows the climber might actually have read the book!

Exactly this. Route names that are quotations rather than titles or characters seem to be really rare. Like the Coleridge. And the Hamlet crag mentioned above certainly delivers! It's not in my Red Rocks guide, but that's quite ancient. 

OP Andy Clarke 21 Jan 2019
In reply to planetmarshall:

And on the subject of Coleridge, it's just struck me that he's got a whole crag in Tuolumne:  Stately Pleasure Dome from Kubla Khan. 

 overdrawnboy 21 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

If poems/songs are admissable then the following crawled to mind;

Is "slouching towards Bethlehem" a route somewhere? I think its a quote from a Yeats poem.

"Twisted Reach" on Chatsworth is borrowed from Mr Tambourine Man  

 DaveHK 22 Jan 2019
In reply to overdrawnboy:

> If poems/songs are admissable then the following crawled to mind;

> Is "slouching towards Bethlehem" a route somewhere? I think its a quote from a Yeats poem.

Rough Beast (which precedes your quote) would be a good route name, especially on grit or gabbro. It's from Second Coming by Yeats.

 

Post edited at 07:12
OP Andy Clarke 22 Jan 2019
In reply to overdrawnboy:

> If poems/songs are admissable then the following crawled to mind;

> "Twisted Reach" on Chatsworth is borrowed from Mr Tambourine Man  

As a big Dylan fan I can't resist continuing the line with Crazy Sorrow (Winter) (IX 10). Any more lines from songs, rather than titles? 

 Dave Garnett 22 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

> Exactly this. Route names that are quotations rather than titles or characters seem to be really rare.

The Wine Dark Sea (E1 5a)

 

 

OP Andy Clarke 22 Jan 2019
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Two Ulysses references in succession. Very neat, given where the thread started! Here's another: Hungry Heart (E2 5b), from the great Tennyson poem. 

 DaveHK 22 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke:

> Here's another: Hungry Heart (E2 5b), from the great Tennyson poem. 

Or the Springsteen song...

 

OP Andy Clarke 22 Jan 2019
In reply to DaveHK:

I think that's a deliberate allusion on the Boss's part. (And I bet he finished the novel as well as the poem!)

 AndySL 22 Jan 2019
In reply to Andy Clarke

Kipling Groove - Because it is Rudy-ard


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