Woodcroft/Wintour's access

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 Euan Todd 23 Feb 2019

Wintour's Leap Wintour's Leap

Just a friendly reminder to all that are climbing at Woodcroft, or using that entrance for access to Wintour's - there is a locked combination gate. Look up the combination on BMC RAD, before going, don't jump the fence.

We ran into the landowner, who was looking for some sport climbers that had jumped the fence beside the gate.  He was reasonable and polite, but did say if it keeps happening, he'll fence off the whole thing, and chop the bolts in Woodcroft.  So please respect the access - it takes 2 seconds to look up the code, please don't ruin it for everyone!

Cheers,

Euan

 whenry 23 Feb 2019
In reply to Euan Todd:

I don't think the news about the gate has spread well - I was there today and my climbing partner didn't know about the gate, and another couple were wandering about the top trying to find their way in when we got there.

In reply to whenry:

 It's a paradox, you can't write a sign that says code available on the BMC RAD as then anyone could look it up. 

Despite this,  if climbers are still choosing to climb the gate that's very dissapointing!! I'm assuming there is some sort of signage explaining the importance of respecting the access arrangements?

 Xavierpercy 24 Feb 2019
In reply to Sandstone Stickman:

Very disappointing that quick and easy access could be jeopardised again.

Perhaps there could be a sign directing the person to the BMC RAD database and a series of questions would have to be answered to show that you are a genuine climber. Questions that only a genuine climber would know.

A bit like those “I am not a robot” tests you have to do sometimes where you have to mark all the squares with shopfronts. 

Maybe the following as suggestions;

Is the Trad grade broken for routes harder than E6?

What is the grade of three pebble slab?

Where the line is drawn between an onsight and a flash.

Was Hubble the worlds first 9a

 bpmclimb 24 Feb 2019
In reply to Euan Todd:

So please respect the access - it takes 2 seconds to look up the code, please don't ruin it for everyone!

Thanks for highlighting this - I think it needs highlighting, because it only takes 2 seconds to look up the code if you already know it's there. There's no reference to it that's immediately obvious on either UKC crag page or the RAD entry: you can find it fairly easily by scrolling down one then the other, but you'd only do that if you already knew you needed a code. It doesn't surprise me in the least that climbers don't know about it.

 bpmclimb 24 Feb 2019
In reply to Xavierpercy:

> A bit like those “I am not a robot” tests you have to do sometimes where you have to mark all the squares with shopfronts. 

I'm really bad at that test - I have to get Clare to come and tell me which ones to tick

 Xavierpercy 24 Feb 2019
In reply to bpmclimb:

Does that mean that you are a robot and not a real person?

 Offwidth 24 Feb 2019
In reply to Xavierpercy:

Probably more that he is an active exploratory climber who doesn't spend all his time obsessing about UKC memes ? :-0

1
 Luke90 24 Feb 2019
In reply to Sandstone Stickman:

> Despite this,  if climbers are still choosing to climb the gate that's very dissapointing!!

It's more difficult when the established status quo for years has been to slip through gaps in the fence. If I didn't spend so much of my time on UKC and showed up to the crag to see a new locked gate, I might assume that slipping around it would be fine too.

There obviously can't be a sign pointing people too clearly to the RAD but a sign next to the lock with just the BMC logo on it, perhaps asking people to respect the access arrangements, might be enough of a hint that the BMC are involved without meaning much to non-climbers.

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 Rick Sewards 24 Feb 2019
In reply to Euan Todd:

Thanks Euan for highlighting this - I will email you separately just to clarify one or two things but I can only reinforce what everyone else has said - for anyone climbing at Wintour's Leap, please check the BMC RAD and if you can't access the code for any reason, DON'T attempt to climb over/round the fencing - use one of the other approaches to the crag.

For a variety of reasons, we probably can't put in any extra signage on site, but one thing we can all do is try to spread the word to anyone likely to climb there so they know the new arrangements.

Thanks

Rick Sewards

Wye Valley Access Rep

 FactorXXX 24 Feb 2019
In reply to Euan Todd:

> We ran into the landowner, who was looking for some sport climbers that had jumped the fence beside the gate. 

Maybe I'm missing something, but what's to stop the scrotes from jumping the fence?
Sort of reminds me of this:  youtube.com/watch?v=SbWg-mozGsU&

 badgerjockey 24 Feb 2019
In reply to Rick Sewards:

It's great that access to Wintours has been renegotiated and continues for this year.

I've not been down so far this year so haven't seen the setup but without signage of some sort, I dare say that scaling the gate would have been my initial response had I not read this thread, considering how long 'established' the access was at this end in the past. Checking the BMC RAD would probably only pop into my head shortly after! That is just my honest reaction (and shortcoming) and quite likely to be that of many others.

I will do my bit to spread the word but with the best will in the world, without some form of signage, we cannot expect all local and visiting climbers to be UKC-devotees or even aware of the RAD. Other informal signage about bird bans and temporary sector closures had cropped up from time to time in the past here, so why not something politely explaining the situation without explicitly pointing to the RAD. Perhaps a Fairy Cave Quarry style arrangement where the code is requested by email might permit a more informative sign...

 Xavierpercy 25 Feb 2019
In reply to Euan Todd:

I am reliably informed that the access details will be included in the re-print of the Wye Valley Sport book which is out soon. 

 dave frost 25 Feb 2019
In reply to Xavierpercy:

For those of us who wouldnt go near the wye valley sport book in a million years that doesnt help a great deal.

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 rich H0001 25 Feb 2019
In reply to Euan Todd:

It's worth noting as well that the access is not the original gate. A new pedestrian gate has been installed which is located approximately 25m along the footpath.

Many thanks to those who have been involved in negotiating access.

 myrddinmuse 26 Feb 2019
In reply to Euan Todd:

Was there today, and as we were leaving (around 5pm) there was what seemed to be a family group (with toddler in tow) stood trying to hack the gate by trying various combinations with no success. I felt guilty (having enjoyed a pristine afternoon looking at one of the best views around), knowing these guys might even be from Woodcroft village, a lot more local than us.

Anyway, I sort of said "Alright" and didn't really look at them lest they see my awkwardness at the situation. They didn't see the code we entered, and we walked out. I thought the gate had swung shut, but one of them clearly had shot in and put a foot in the gap because when we turned around they'd gone through. They noticed that a code was needed to exit as well, so they seemed to be deliberating as we left on whether to commit and let the gate shut or not. If it was me I'd probably send someone to get something to prop it open with.

I had a bit of a dilemma whether to talk to them and explain the access situation (without details of where to get the code), but didn't want to start a confrontation with a friendly looking young family, and was honestly unsure what to do. Did we do the right thing? Should we have made a point to shut it in their faces? I love that place and love that a solution has been found, but found it difficult to maybe do the right thing today (whatever that was in that situation). Bit of a shit one.


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