UKH

St Bees / bird ban / directions

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 gravy 18 May 2021

The RAD says a bird ban right/south of Army Screamers.  This means that "right of" must mean "as you face the crag" (not as you face the sea). That much I get.

But in the UKC log book its hard to see which climbs are right and left of Army Screamers...

I think this means that the entirety of Apiary Wall is ok to climb and then "going right" (as you look at the crag) / "going left" (as it is when you walk in) all of scabby back is fine until Army Screamers.  Any further is bird banned.

I'd guess "north head" is the other direction so fine? I've not got this in my guidebook and I've never been there but I imagine after the descent from the cliff you turn right?

eg:

Western Crack OK

Army Screamers OK (but fallen down?)

Something for the Weekend Banned

My guidebook looks a little out of date and it's been a few years since I've been so could someone comment on the state of the climbs and bolts? is there a topo anywhere for the newer climbs?

Thanks!

In reply to gravy:

Slate and sport guide came out last year. The old Buttermere and st bees guide says bird ban is mostly the multi pitch trad routes not fisherman friends / scabby back area etc.

Most of its been rebolted with glue ins. Still spaced and some missing/ dodgy lower offs.

Access is tricky don't be tempted to go too far north of the fog horn. Find the descent path that has some fixed ropes lower down.

Amazing place!


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