It's been a Goodyear. Gilwern lower. Best avoide

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 cavclimber 28 May 2019

GilwernIt's been a Goodyear (6b+)

Approx 1metre sq. Rock fall on the upper part of the route.

Appears to unstable. Suggest this route is avoided. Also noticed a bird of prey nesting above this route.

 bpmclimb 28 May 2019
In reply to cavclimber:

Hi, thanks for posting. Actually, it was me that removed the big flake last week - been meaning to do it for a while, as it was obviously dangerous. What remains is mostly earth, may be some smaller bits and pieces though. The whole route needs a good clean, bolts inspected, possibly move 4th bolt to the right - and it's always needed a better lower-off anyway.

All in all - agreed that the route is best avoided for the time being.

 bpmclimb 01 Jun 2019
In reply to bpmclimb:

Update: the scar left by the big flake has been cleaned. The logical line of the route is now straight up, which makes crossing the scar leftwards to clip the final bolt runner awkward - that bolt could do with being further right. The lower off is ok - by Gilwern standards! The route is a cruxy 6c (may feel more like 6c+ for the short).


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