Craig y Forwyn - gate and access issues

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Elfyn Jones 23 Aug 2018

Craig y Forwyn

There have been a number of occasions this year when the gate to the agreed parking area  at the top of the crag has been left open by climbers. This has meant the farmers sheep have escaped and been scattered all over the village and surrounding countryside.  This has cost him time and money  and created issues with his neighbors. This landowner has been exceptionally tolerant  and accommodating of climbers and allows us to park for free on his land. If this happens again then we can basically wave goodbye to any hope of ever achieving full access to this crag. 

Please please ensure the gate is properly shut and on the latch at all times!  the gate is now controlled by a keypad lock - the code can be found on the BMC RAD access page:  https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=798s 

The BMC is still in negotiation with the landowner of the central (Great Wall) section of the crag but these negotiations have been delayed at the request of the landowners, until a planning application for the redevelopment of the caravan park has been resolved.  

For now please be patient and avoid climbing on this part of the cliff until we reach an agreement here.

thanks

Elfyn Jones 

BMC Access & Conservation Officer (Wales)

 

 

 

 

 

Post edited at 13:29
 Mike Nolan 23 Aug 2018
In reply to Elfyn Jones:

I've not climbed here, so sorry if this is already in place, but would a BMC sign next to the gate explaining the above help? 

 

OP Elfyn Jones 23 Aug 2018
In reply to Mike Nolan:

It's in hand! Signs ordered but it's a real shame that signs are needed to tell climbers to ensure that they close a field gate after them! 

 descender8 24 Aug 2018
In reply to Elfyn Jones:

It's a real shame that climbers automatically get the blame , could of been kids , walkers / hikers,  spiteful f*ckers ? 

If it's was a climber and yiur reading this I wish you the worst of luck

5
In reply to descender8:

It's not somewhere local kids would be bothered going, and most walkers use the stiles / kissing gates. Only climbers are likely to open the main gate to get to the parking.

Now there's a keycode on the gate it will be obvious who to blame if it happens again - only climbers will have the code!

 FactorXXX 24 Aug 2018
In reply to Ron Rees Davies:

> Now there's a keycode on the gate it will be obvious who to blame if it happens again - only climbers will have the code!

The Top Secret Code that happens to be available to anyone that does a Google search for 'Craig y Forwyn Keypad' or 'Llanddulas Keypad'.
You don't even have to open the relevant page as it's shown on the Google search page itself.
 

 

 Jim 1003 24 Aug 2018
In reply to Elfyn Jones:

> It's in hand! Signs ordered but it's a real shame that signs are needed to tell climbers to ensure that they close a field gate after them! 

Signs to inform people from urban areas to shut gates in the countryside are common, climbers from urban areas are no different to anybody else in my experience, there's a cross section of  idiots there too. The litter at crags is a good example.

Post edited at 10:16
 Offwidth 24 Aug 2018
In reply to FactorXXX:

Ah! a gate with a code lock near something that looks like a climbing venue.. super villain gate left opener I am I will search for climbing access information to foil the owners devious plan nghhhhhaa haa ha ha ha ha.

 FactorXXX 24 Aug 2018
In reply to Offwidth:

> Ah! a gate with a code lock near something that looks like a climbing venue.. super villain gate left opener I am I will search for climbing access information to foil the owners devious plan nghhhhhaa haa ha ha ha ha.

It appears that you have got a problem with me as this is the second time that you've made an arsey reply to something I have posted. Is it because of the comment I left on your 'Red Wall' thread?  If so, touché... .
As for the actual criticism that you made of my comment, well, yes, it's not actually the best of plans is it?  The whole idea of the new system is to 100% categorically ensure that the gate can only be used by people with access to the code and that if the gate is now left open, it can only be climbers that have left it open.
I'm assuming that the farmer, who appears to be a pleasant bloke is at the end of his patience and any more having to retrieve his sheep could not only jeopardise current access, but the ongoing discussions for the rest of the crag. 
Why not copy the process for 'Fairy Cave Quarry' where you have to send an email for the code?

 Offwidth 24 Aug 2018
In reply to FactorXXX:

I have nothing agaisnt you, just what you said.... however, just because you are paranoid it doesn't mean they are not out to get you

No the lock is not for that purpose... its to stop nuisance use. An email just delays any access from my super-villain  alter ego. Whether climbers or not, the sort of idiot who leaves gates open in a field with sheep is usually lazy in many other ways and I don't think they will be looking for codes online. The only other possibility is someone with a grudge, who will just get some bolt cutters.

Post edited at 12:19
1
 FactorXXX 24 Aug 2018
In reply to Offwidth:

> I have nothing agaisnt you, just what you said.... however, just because you are paranoid it doesn't mean they are not out to get you

Tell you what, reply to my post in the 'Red Wall' thread and I'll explain my comment.  Fair enough?

> No the lock is not for that purpose... its to stop nuisance use. An email just delays any access from my super-villain  alter ego. Whether climbers or not, the sort of idiot who leaves gates open in a field with sheep is usually lazy in many other ways and I don't think they will be looking for codes online. The only other possibility is someone with a grudge, who will just get some bolt cutters.

Maybe/Maybe not, but one thing is for certain, now the code has been introduced the Farmer will automatically blame climbers if the gate is left open and if that means access is lost, who could really blame him?

P.S. I didn't Dislike your post.

Post edited at 12:49
 Offwidth 24 Aug 2018
In reply to FactorXXX:

I agree with your Red Wall comment but think its missing the point... the route is around middling VDiff in my wide experience of lower grade guidebook work (allowing a bit for soft local grading and the  most common access, the 'step of death above crocodile infected waters' and if the large number of UKC guidebook votes worked it should be coming out as more than two grades easier than the large number of votes on LELC. Most routes on UKC logbooks that are graded severe in soft touch graded areas and getting mild severe voting averages are probably HVD or VD, so, yes you can 'read' the votes. Equally, as I know Cornish granite has tough grades I'd expect, from UKC vote averages, for LELC to be at least Severe if I hadn't already climbed it. Ego voting usually raises a vote average of a correctly graded 'soft touch at the grade' classic to middle of the grade (as it does for Inverted V etc on Stanage Popular .. a soft venue on average for classic grit grading). Such voting biases are standard Psychology.... my post was just giving more evidence for those who are interested.

Back on topic, the same argument you make for the code being available online applies with email access.

Post edited at 13:15
 MikePycroft 24 Aug 2018
In reply to Elfyn Jones:

The link to the BMC RAD should be

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/RAD/View.aspx?id=798

OP Elfyn Jones 24 Aug 2018
In reply to MikePycroft:

Oops....thanks Mike! Dont know how that extra 's' got into that url....perils of working from a smartphone! 


New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...