In reply to wilkinscl:
All the restored routes are in the Martin Crocker 2015 guide, you should buy it especially if wanting detailed info.
There's also loads of info on the ukc page re when and what you can climb, but yes it can be a bit perplexing understanding Cheddar.
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/cheddar_gorge_south-240
South side has 11 more days then banned for July and Aug except Horseshoe bend, Yew tree Wall, and Ginsberg Wall, after 6pm, and other areas as shown on access map.
Mostly everything right of the SB left arête is in, but depending how far right you mean? Other buttresses have restrictions.
It's mostly choss just left of the arête, but around the arête and lower down is Madrugada wall. There are a few routes, on the Madrugada wall, pg 62 new 2015 MC guide that are accessed by walking from the thin path under Burmese wall and SS buttress, very precariously around the corner, which is a bit scary too. There's a few restored sport + trad routes The first route along there is a 7a+, and left again are 3 trads. Stuff right of the 7a+ that is in the old guide will be winter access only, or banned, page 83 old 2004 CC guide.
I'd recommend getting the guide (guides in your case if you want to explore less popular stuff).
Almost everything that is in Martin Crockers guide (latest 2015) is a restored route, is one way of looking at it.
But there are also some unrestored trad routes in the new guide, with grey shading on the title, some of which are on sunset buttress. Unrestored routes that aren't in this guide, are only permitted in "winter" season, or are now totally prohibited for some old climbs on the south side, I think.
Also, click the yellow restricted access box here...
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/cheddar_gorge_south-240
Quoting from the above link...
It has been reported that there is some confusion or misunderstanding of the use of the terms "restored" and "unrestored" routes in relation to access. Restored routes are trad routes that were cleaned and equiped with lower off bolts, and sport routes that were bolted or rebolted and equipped. This work was carried out as part of the Cheddar Gorge Climbing project between 2003 - 2005. All these routes are described in the current guide book - Cheddar Gorge Climbs by Martin Crocker. The access agreement for 2019 only includes routes found in this guide. Some restored routes in the guide remain as winter only routes. This includes most of the multi pitch routes in the gorge. Full details are in the guide. The climbs on the South side listed in previous guide books and not found in the current book, including the previous CC guides are winter access only - 1st October -- 15th March.
Annual loose rock removal carried out by the landowners has nothing to do with access changes for climbers and has no bearing on on the climbing access agreements. It is carried out entirely in the interest of safety for visitors to the gorge.
Re the bmc access map download, where it says...
This is the link...
https://www.thebmc.co.uk/download.aspx?id=1732
Unrestored routes (Inc Coronation St) only accessible 1 Oct to 15 March inclusive, except...
It means the unrestored routes can be climbed in winter from Oct to March 15, except...
and gives a list of exceptions.
I'm not sure if this is totally correct about the exceptions, but i understand it to mean this..
The list of exceptions, means they are exceptions from the winter access too, in the sense that they are permanently now out of bounds and not to be climbed at all, I think.
The routes on the wall above bus turning circle are permitted when the gorge tour bus isn't running, and from Oct to 15 March.
The same list of exceptions are listed in a box that says "prohibited" on pg 167 of the 2015 guide.
Mark C will be along soon to correct me if I am wrong
I'll be embarrassed if I've still got this wrong! Ha!
If you have a route name and aren't sure if it's in or out, feel free to email me and I'll check.
Post edited at 15:35