It is very clear from both the BMC RAD and the UK logbooks and the onsite signs, the main car park is currently closed. Part of the Main Face is also closed and has safety fencing due to rockfall. Conwy Council who own the site have done this on the advice from geo-technical specialists following a minor rockfall on the left hand side of the main wall. Having received that advice, they have a legal requirement to erect barriers to protect the public.
As is clear on the signage and crag info, there is ample parking at the alternative car park less than 5 mins walk away. Some climbers may feel that the extent of the restriction on the main wall is excessive but having had formal qualified advice from Castle Inn Quarry geo-technical experts, the Council had no option but to restrict access to this part of the cliff until safety works can be completed.
Despite this, on either Saturday afternoon or Sunday morning, it seems some climbers were happy to totally disregard the signage, break open the car park barriers, park below the cliff, move the safety barriers below the cliff and vandalise the signage. This it utterly moronic, irresponsible and does nothing to help access issues either here or at other locations across North Wales, and will undoubtedly have a significant impact on all future access negotiations on North Wales Limestone, as Conwy Council either own or have a major influence on most climbing venues (including the Ormes) along this coastline.
Please do not use the Main car park or park on the approach lanes. If you are climbing here and see other climbers doing this, can you please ask them to park in the Mynydd Marian Nature Reserve car park, which is literally less than a 5 minutes walk across the top of the crag.
Elfyn Jones
Access & Conservation Officer (Wales)
