UKH

There has been a significant rockfall/landslip in the area of the rickety old bridge between the slabs area and Gehenna. The already precarious path traversing the base of the crag is even more so now, due to much unstable rock, uprooted trees and other debris above and below the line of the old path. It is advisable to avoid this area and access the crag from the descents at either end of the crag, all of which already require care.

Mike Conlon

BMC Access and Conservation Volunteer

Thanks, always wanted to visit, is the crag dry/in condition at the moment or is it better waiting for warmer summer conditions?

Less than perfect yesterday Graeme. Probably worth leaving for a little while and putting a soft brush in your bag when you do come.

Hi Mike

Thanks for posting. A friend is keen to do Mongol this year. I'm trying to remember the layout of the place as it is several years since I did Mongol. I assume that Mongol is too far left to be affected by the rockfall you describe but can you please confirm this is definitely the case? 

Thanks, Christy.

You are correct in that the climb on your wish list is well left of the landslip (if you were looking at the crag from below). The suggested approach, assuming you have crossed the moor, would be to head direct across the cleared plantation once you have gone through the two kissing gates. Head towards the escarpment edge and you should see a broad gully with a steep path going down. Take care as it is surprisingly slippy, fight your way left at the bottom and your wall will be obvious.

I went for a nostalgic look in March a few years ago. It was a wet day so it all looked a bit sombre. Probably best to wait for a logbook post or mid May.

Mongol is well left of the bridge/ rockfall.

All the cracklines at Beacon are classics.

When I lived in the north east , the Tuesday evening cmc meet at Beacon  used to be the highlight of the mid week  /after work climbing for me.

Thanks Mike

Thanks Rick. Yes, I've climbed at Beacon before so I know it's best to wait until later in year. The time I led Mongol the top was filthy. Fairly terrifying as I was clawing at mud to keep the onsight at the top. My friend wants to lead it so I'll give it a gentle clean before she gets on it so that she can onsight it without the mud!

Like many Clubs, there are no official CMC Meets currently. A few members informally met up there last night and had a really good time although restricted to the left hand end of the crag. CMC members have undertaken a considerable amount of crag maintenance in recent years, bringing back into contention a number of good middle grade climbs and it remains a popular Club venue. 

The CMC efforts include clearing the gangway at the top of the slabs which I think extends to the top of your climb. A number of bolts have been exposed which may help you once up!

Not if they are the same type of bolt as when I last climbed there . Totally unsuitable for soft sandstone . I took some out with a nut key.

Could not understand why they were there.

It was far easier to use the trees a couple of metres away!