Ban-y-Gor - Main Cliff

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 Rick Sewards 09 Aug 2018

Hi all

I can confirm that the peregrines that were nesting on Main Cliff have now fledged.  Moreover, following the restriction last year to Head Sector only (which was observed fully - thank you) it has been agreed with the Gloucestershire Wildlife Trust that climbing is now permitted as far left as It's A Sin (7a+) - this means that the Apedex and Cemetery sectors are now available for climbing, in addition to the Head Sector.  Please do not climb anything beyond (left of) It's a Sin - there are temporary signs up in place, including one just beyond the start of It's Sin marking the boundary of the permitted area.  More permanent signs will replace these in due course.

None of the routes beyond Heady Days (6b+) have had any traffic for nearly two years, and so there will be some vegetation on the routes.  Pruning of ivy, brambles, dog rose and red valerian from existing routes is OK (there has previously been formal consent to remove these plants only) but please leave other vegetation alone, and if a route is severely overgrown then leave it and let me know - I will check with the GWT if they are happy for it to be cleaned.   I have just done Muddy Waters (6a) and it's now clean enough to be climbed (albeit still a bit prickly!) - the lower off is a bit hard to spot but it's up on the left hiding under an umbrella of ivy.    On the other hand, the top of Slow Boat To Chepstow (6b+) and possibly Up The Garden Path (6b+) look impossible at the moment.  Most of the steeper routes look climbable with a bit of en route pruning - bring secateurs!

There is likely to be a nesting restriction again next spring (the peregrine family - at least three of them - were no longer nesting but still flying around tonight), but for the rest of the year these three sectors are open for climbing. 

Cheers

Rick 

Wye Valley Access Rep

 springfall2008 31 Aug 2018
In reply to Rick Sewards:

Thanks Rick,

I can certaintly say Muddy Waters is worth the visit, it's a cracking route.

Also if you are there climb Heady Days, it's a 3*


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