which bike

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 hang_about 13 Jul 2020

Evening all. I'm looking to buy a road bike on the 'cycle to work' scheme. This doesn't re-open until Sept so I've got a bit of thinking time and thought it best to get UKC collective wisdom.

I'm looking for a road bike - £1000ish. 

A bit of background. I've cycled every day all my life but never much for 'fun'. During lockdown I started cycling into the Peak District to get some aerobic exercise and found I quite enjoyed climbing/suffering up the hills. I have a rather heavy steel framed cyclocross bike and am looking for something a bit lighter and more nimble.

I'll only ever use it for fun cycling (so nothing too racy) but I like drop handle bars and handlebar gear shifts. I'm mid fifties so not looking to set the world on fire, but have good general fitness. I'll fit clipless pedals.

I'm thinking Cannondale AL7.0 or something from the Allez range but there's a lot of choice.

I've been reading about groupsets and seem to think Shimano 105 or equivalent might give me more options on the steeper climbs (my routes take in 11% gradients and I have my eye on some steeper stuff). Not sure though.

Also brakes - I'll be largely fair weather

No lycra....

Any advice much appreciated

 PaulW 13 Jul 2020
In reply to hang_about:

Don't overthink it. Most bikes at the £1000 level are great these days.

Get the right size frame for you. Everything else can be changed / adjusted if necessary.

For the Peak District a compact chainset would be a good idea (smaller chainrings) makes going uphill easier. Most bikes these days seem to come with these as an option at least.

The Boardman stuff at Halfords and Decathlon bikes are generally good value if you can use your voucher there.

OP hang_about 13 Jul 2020
In reply to PaulW:

Thanks. I realise there's probably few bad choices. There just seem to be a lot of alternatives.

 GraB 13 Jul 2020
In reply to hang_about:

For that money, I think I'd be looking at the Canyon Endurace AL. The 105 rim brake version is a bit over a grand  - £1100. I don't know if you can get this through the bike to work scheme though. If not, I'd probably still get it.

 abr1966 13 Jul 2020
In reply to hang_about:

There are a lot of bikes at that price point as its a very competitive part of the market. You could get a carbon bike for that money....have a look at Planet X, Dolan and Ribble websites.

The geometry of the frame and getting your position right is the most important thing....there are lots of videos on youtube to confuse you!

If you have a decent local bikeshop they could talk you through the process and see what they can offer you....

Its a bit of a.minefield but you should be able to get a really good bike for a grand but do some research on the spec. 105 is very good....as is Tiagra these days....SRAM equivalents are good too....

Post back on here if you see anything as there are a few people on here who know their stuff....

 GrahamD 13 Jul 2020
In reply to hang_about:

Personally I'd go for something with 50/34 compact and 11/32 on the back, but I like the option to 'spin' a bit on hills.  Other than that, fit obviously and don't underestimate the value of aesthetics to the joy you get out of a bike.  Get one that looks good to you!

I don't think there is a 'bad' bike at that price point, at least from any of the known brands. 

1
OP hang_about 13 Jul 2020
In reply to GrahamD:

Thanks everyone. I'll make sure I get the fit right. Partly why I'm waiting a bit for lockdown to ease.

 LastBoyScout 13 Jul 2020
In reply to hang_about:

I very nearly bought an Allez Elite, but got lucky on a 2nd hand carbon Trek instead.

Worth bearing in mind that bikes around that price point are currently very popular due to limited exercise options during lockdown and are therefore in very short supply - many dealerships have been cleared of stock and the supply chains are still trying to catch up again. My local Halfords had got bugger all in the way of adult bikes a couple of weeks ago!

Situation should improve by the time you want yours - and would be worth looking on eBay and similar for barely used 2nd hand bike bargains around then when people realise they've bought the wrong size/didn't get on with it/trail centres are back open/scared now the traffic is getting back to normal.

 Jim Lancs 14 Jul 2020

One issue with buying a bike in September is going to be a lack of choice. Under £1000 bikes have been big sellers during the lockdown and September is traditionally the low point in shop stock levels anyway, before the arrival of the following season's models in time for Christmas.

So be prepared to look around! The websites for both Halfords and Decathlon are pretty good for finding out which shops have stock to go and 'touch and feel'.

Don't be too hung up on 'no lycra'. We older riders don't just wear it as a forlorn attempt to court youthful athletic prowess, it does actually work as effective cycling clothing.

Dom Connaway 14 Jul 2020
In reply to hang_about:

Some good advice above but the key point is to test ride as many bikes as possible and for as long as possible. Make sure you try a couple of bikes that you think you won't like so much as those rides will give context. Don't be embarrassed about testing several bikes; a good bike shop will be happy to let you do this and if the bike shop isn't happy you'll be glad that you found out that they're not worth buying a bike from.

If you are regularly riding 11% hills then look for a bottom gear no harder than 1:1. Talk to the shop you buy the bike from as it may be cheaper to alter gearing before you buy the bike. 105 stuff is excellent value, as is SLX if you jump that way.

Lastly, you might perhaps not be aware that there are now several bike schemes which are not capped at £1,000. 

Post edited at 09:08
 nniff 14 Jul 2020
In reply to hang_about:

And don't dismiss lycra.  People wear it for a reason, and it's not aesthetics

OP hang_about 14 Jul 2020

Thanks everyone

The lycra comment was tongue-in-cheek! <insert your own joke here>

I'm aware that the cycle to work scheme is not capped at £1000 but that seemed a sensible compromise between buying something nice but, at the same time, not over doing it.

My route home from work has a 10% hill on it - so steepish is fairly routine. A bit of lower gearing is going to make things more pleasant as on my current bike it's very much a 'grind' once I get to those sorts of hills (and they get steeper round High Bradfield). 

I had a look at Canyon and shipping is Nov - so the timing might be a bit off. It's a pity as I've got the bug (and my current bike is in the workshop for a week or so)

 ChrisJD 14 Jul 2020
In reply to hang_about:

Defo avoid the lycra.  Maintain some self respect.

6
 TobyA 14 Jul 2020
In reply to hang_about:

I went into Sheffield Decathlon last week for the first time since the winter and the bike section looked like they had been ram raided and cleaned out! There were a few of the good road and gravel bikes still there - around you price range actually, so it may well be worth a look. 

With big brands like Cannondale, Trek, Specialized etc. you get all that design experience in the frames and geometry and so on, but you find that you won't get as good components at a price point. So while you might get a 105 groupset on a 1000 quid bike from Boardman or Ribble or Planet X (and Ultrega on one from Decathlon!) you might only get Tiagra on a Cannondale. It normally works something like that anyway.

If you ride in the Peak a lot you should at least consider a gravel bike rather than a pure road bike. Stronger wheels and more clearance for bigger tyres means lots of bridleways and byways become possible which gets you away from busy roads. They are great on not so well maintained lanes and roads as well, you're not always worried about trashing your wheels in a pothole you notice too late! I do still ride my road bike but I would survive without it because of my gravel bike. It's the perfect commuter for me as well, not much slower on roads but I ride along the canal for a big chunk of my commute away from the traffic.


 jethro kiernan 14 Jul 2020
In reply to hang_about:

This Ribble ticks a lot of boxes

https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/ribble-cgr-al-orange-shimano-tiagra/

One bike to do everything commuting, road and bridleways etc.

Tiagra is good but you can add extras on the bike build such as a carbon seat post to add a bit more comfort or go for the 105 😏

 Mick r 14 Jul 2020
In reply to hang_about:

definitely go and sit on and try as many bikes as you can, although as mentioned above, it may be a little more difficult at the minute with the shops being empty of 2020 bikes and still awaiting delivery of the 2021 stock.  

I was in a similar situation last year, looking to spend around £1000. I tried Specialised, Trek etc, but the Cannondale Synapse immediately felt right.  I picked one up from Evans for £850 with 105 Groupset, but they seem to have increased in price a bit since then...

OP hang_about 14 Jul 2020

I was sort of thinking a road bike - I have my cyclocross for commuting (partly through a park). That's in the shop as I road it down the bridlepath at Burbage Edge and it popped a spoke. I can't say I found that trip very enjoyable  - probably too much time on the brakes (I'm not an off roader) and the vibration was a bit grim.

It's a bit perverse but I've really got into nice long hill climbs and a fair bit of suffering. I've enjoyed the increase in aerobic fitness as I don't get much these days beyond the daily commute (smashed by leg up skiing so running etc not that much fun). In a way I can suffer away on a steel framed bike - so I realise I'm a bit conflicted. 

I certainly don't want a 'thoroughbred'. At the moment I'm doing 1-2 hours and am looking to go further, so comfort is important. Something tougher would be good for the inevitable potholes although they have improved a lot recently - my trip to work used to be horrific).

 wilkesley 14 Jul 2020
In reply to hang_about:

If you get the chance, try out a Giant. They have a frame geometry which suits many people and a relaxed riding posture. A compact chain set should get you up anything in the Peak, unless you have a particular wish to cycle up Winnats.

OP hang_about 14 Jul 2020
In reply to wilkesley:

It's on the list but not yet!

 ChrisJD 14 Jul 2020
In reply to ChrisJD:

> Defo avoid the lycra.  Maintain some self respect.

Ha ha, you disliking Lycra wearers are definitely in denial

1
 jethro kiernan 14 Jul 2020
In reply to hang_about:

Cannondale synapse is very suitable if you want to stick to pure road 

 nniff 14 Jul 2020
In reply to ChrisJD:

No denial or disliking here.  However, in terms of self-respect I can do without chafing - no self-respecting person should subject themselves to that.  

I have come to terms with the fact that I am not Italian and cannot fit comfortably into a pair of large Castelli shorts.  I am instead a Swiss medium.  The upside of lycra is that it does highlight opportunities for beneficial weight loss for rock climbing, and the cycling provides the means to achieve that.

 LittleRob 14 Jul 2020
In reply to hang_about:

For what its worth, my 2c are:

a) I have an Allez, that I bought second-hand, that has done 7500 miles and I love it. To be fair its a bit like triggers broom. It's now Tiagra which I think is a great groupset.

b) I have a Decathlon RC520 which I also think is a good bike (105 groupset and done ~ 3000 miles mostly winter commuting)

c) I ride a lot in the Peak. I started on a 28 on the cassette (i.e. my lowest gear was 34/28) since then I've gone to a 32, and finally a 34 (giving me the 1-1 gearing mentioned elsewhere). If your hills are only 10% then fine, but a lot of Peak routes will involve more than that.

LR

 Nik Jennings 14 Jul 2020
In reply to hang_about:

I’m a recent startup to road riding (about 4 months down the rabbit hole) and know the best part of very little. My bike is my girlfriends second bike, which is I think quite nice without being mega flashy (caad10). I have no idea about which bike to get, sorry, but I would consider a semi-compact above a compact. For every Peak hill you go up there is a descent on the other side (even if it often doesn’t feel like it) and spinning like crazy downhill is frustrating. When I started riding the bike it was on a 34/50 (“compact” I think?) I’ve changed the big ring to give 34/52 (sort of almost “semi-compact” I think? Normally 36/52 or 53?? for a semi?) and it is much more practical going flat/down now as well as still climbing well. Obviously the cassette has an impact, mine is 12-28 and I haven’t yet not made it up a hill (based in the Peak) and I’m a total noobie.

But I’ll happy bow to the knowledge of greater and more experienced minds than mine, I was just making the point that low gear is important sometimes but so is high gear some other times...

OP hang_about 14 Jul 2020
In reply to Nik Jennings:

I think low gearing is more important for me than high. I spin out at 40 mph on my cyclocross but that's fast enough for me. Visions of turning cars, random sheep or potholes makes going faster less enticing.

I'm normally happy to recover on the way down.

 Pbob 14 Jul 2020
In reply to hang_about:

Don't want to put a downer on your thinking, but I would start by finding out what is in stock anywhere. My LBS tells me they've sold out of everything apart from electric bikes. They've even sold out of accessories like helmets and pannier racks. I was successful buying a few inner tubes but only because they were an unpopular size.

The best bike is the one you're sat on rather than waiting for.


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