Looking at a new bike and a local shop has the base Diverge in for $1100.
I was originally thinking of a pure road bike but I live close to dirt roads and also the minor roads are in bad shape so thinking a bike which can handle more may make more sense.
Currently I've a Nashbar I picked up when I first moved over but it's just not that nice to ride, fine for 20 miles or so.
Is anyone familiar with the diverge? How is it on surfaced roads?
I've recently acquired a Diverge Carbon and run it with 2 pairs of wheels - original wheels fitted with 45mm wide Pirelli Cinturano plus a pair of 40mm carbon wheels with 32mm Panaracer Gravelking slicks. On the road it's no slower than my mates riding full-on race bikes - it will happily roll along at 40-50kph as long as I've got the legs. Ultimately, it comes down to your choice of tyres - the Specialized tyres aren't that great.
This is coming with 30mm tyres, but I'm having it shipped to my LBS at the moment so I've not seen it in person yet.
Thanks for the feedback. I'm after something which will be fine if I'm cruising roads so it sounds good. My cross bike just offers too much resistance.
It's at the top of my budget so I'll probably not change anything for a few months.
Don't think the Specialized tyres are tubeless compatible either - if you do replace the tyres, make sure they're tubeless as it also helps reduced rolling resistance as well as reducing punctures.
I've never used tubeless, are they really worth it?
Definitely - you very rarely puncture and if you do it's an easy fix. You can also run lower pressures for a smoother ride without increasing rolling resistance.
Are they that much better for a low occasion rider?
On my main commute bike I have marathon plus and have worn out two sets without a puncture
My best bike only goes out occasionally and I take a repair kit in a modified water bottle
is tubeless worth the hassle when the rider can do with losing a few kg first?
> is tubeless worth the hassle when the rider can do with losing a few kg first?
On a road bike - no - complete waste of time, money, and general well-being. I tried them for two years and have never been so glad to get rid of a top-dollar purchase. Threw two nominally good tyres in the bin, donated all the sealing stuff to someone who persisted in thinking they were a good idea (Ghetto inflator, syringes and little tubes, valve core extractors, several bottles of sealant, sense of humour). That list tells you all you need to know.
Soggy, off-road pressures - maybe.
So I have the bike.
The main issues is the rear cassette is slipping, its fine when I'm at the top or bottom of the cassette but when in the middle gears it's slipping and bouncing up and down different gears.
I'm due a free service whenever I want but was going to ride it for a bit first.
What's it likely to be?
Great that you have it, you won’t regret it. I bought the predecessor, the tricross, and it’s the best money I ever spent.
I’m not a mechanic but doesn’t sound like the cassette, more likely the gear cables have stretched and need adjusting.
> So I have the bike.
> The main issues is the rear cassette is slipping, its fine when I'm at the top or bottom of the cassette but when in the middle gears it's slipping and bouncing up and down different gears.
> I'm due a free service whenever I want but was going to ride it for a bit first.
> What's it likely to be?
My suggestion, FWIW, would be to take it in and get it fixed. It would seem to me to fit under warranty and should not, therefore, affect any free service you may be entitled to. I'd also be fearful of exacerbating any damage by waiting.
Thanks, I'll take it in tomorrow then.
Took it in today and they sorted it and even gave me a free water bottle for the inconvenience.