Dash cams for bikes

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Le Sapeur 26 Feb 2020

Does such a thing exist? Obviously it would need a long life battery and perhaps 2-3 fps so as not to fill up a memory card too quickly. 

This comes from being gently rear ended by an Inverness based tyre replacement van last summer. I heard him come up behind me at speed and at the last minute a screech of brakes followed by a light nudge. No damage or injuries but the git didn't stop either. A phone call to his boss (thanks to the company name in huge letters on the van) lead to apologies and a promise to reprimand the driver. Because of the boss's positive attitude I left it at that but it did make me think I'd like a camera!

 gethin_allen 26 Feb 2020
In reply to Le Sapeur:

There are a few, cycliq are the market leaders but they are quite expensive. There are alternatives, some cycliq fly6 rip offs have been on offer at Aldi.

 JimR 26 Feb 2020
In reply to Le Sapeur:

I use cycliq  Fly6(rear) and Fly12(front) camera/lights combined. The frames recycle so it'll keep filming but overwrite the oldest. The rear lasts about 4 to 5 hours and the front about 2. Here's some footage.

youtube.com/watch?v=5kO9oZvL6fU&

youtube.com/watch?v=UWhA-zom4n0&

youtube.com/watch?v=cLaXTwCHKC4&

2
Le Sapeur 27 Feb 2020
In reply to JimR & gethin_allan;

Thanks for that. Exactly what I'm looking for. 

 Martin W 27 Feb 2020

IMO the Fly12 is compromised by being mounted on the handlebar - which results in weavy video - and by being not a particularly great front light, together in a single package with a somewhat eye-watering price.  It also has a number of what I regard as fairly unnecessary bells and whistles, such as the tamper alarm which requires you to leave a ~£300 gadget attached fairly insecurely to your parked bike.

My preference for a front camera is an economical GoPro clone such as one of the SJCAM models such as the SJ4000 (which does have cyclic overwriting) carried on a chest or rucksack strap mount (not a helmet mount as that results in even more unsteady footage and is potentially an injury risk in the event of a crash), plus a decent front light that's actually designed for road use rather than simply being as bright as possible.  My preference for a front light is one that has a beam shaped to avoid dazzling other road users, such as one that's compliant with the German StVZO standard.  The combination I use is significantly cheaper than the Fly12, and more flexible in that I can use the GoPro clone camera on its own for all sorts of other things as well.

The Fly6 on the other hand is a decent enough rear light (I always carry more than one anyway) and the footage from the camera velcro-strapped on to the seat tube is fine.  It's also a rather more sensible price than the Fly12.  A rear-mounted camera is very useful for capturing close passes (all too common) and being run in to from behind (not as uncommon as you might imagine, going by accident reports on cycling forums).

I'm not aware of any product in the cycling market that has GPS built in like most car dashcams do.  That said, I'm not convinced that the GPS is all that useful.  What you need in the event of an incident is something to evidence the registration of the vehicle(s) involved and the behaviour of the driver(s), both behind the wheel and, ideally, subsequently.  In the latter respect a chest-mounted camera - i.e. basically a bodycam - is arguably more useful than one that's attached to a damaged bicycle lying on the ground.  The video footage should be adequate to support the reported location of the incident.  If you already use a GPS enabled bike computer or sports watch than you can use the location track from that as well if necessary.

 nniff 27 Feb 2020
In reply to Le Sapeur:

I ride into London every day - 13 miles each way at this time of yeaar, 20 miles each way when the weather's better (I cheat and put the bike in the car for a bit).  I have a Cycliq6 rear light/camera.  Good camera and very good battery life (with an audible indicator on life when you switch on and off) and good light (although I do always have at least one more light all the time).  The camera is very clear and it's stabilised.  I don't use all the alarm nonsense, which is only bluetooth range anyway (so cafe use at most)

On the front, I (as someone said above) the Cycliq thing is far too complicated.  I've got decent lights (two of those all the time too). I've tried the cheap Go-pro knock-offs and they were no good - battery life seems to be the big issue.  At the moment I've got a not so cheap Go-pro knock off - a MUVI K2 which is good enough.  Battery life is a bit over two hours.  I mount the camera on the underside of an out-front Garmin mount which is fine/  It's wide angle and catches all that I need.  All it doesn't show is drivers using mobiles and you turning your head

Le Sapeur 27 Feb 2020
In reply to Martin W:

I have a GoPro but the battery life is so short it makes it useless for this purpose.

Most of my cycling is either long days out or cycle touring where I can be on the bike for between 6 and 9 hours so having something with a changeable battery that lasts 4 or 5 hours would be ideal, but it looks like that will be difficult to find.

Given the different riding positions on a long day out I'm not sure a body cam would work for me. In town the body position is far more upright than a long haul on a flat country road. 

I use a Cateye volt1700 for a front light so see your point about not using the Fly12 on the front.

 wilkesley 27 Feb 2020
In reply to gethin_allen:

I use my GoPro Hero 7 black on the front. The image stabilization works well. As most of my cycling is done on quiet country lanes, I don't bother turning the GoPro on until I get into a town unless I am trying to make a video of a particular route.

If you don't use the GoPro for anything else apart from a dash cam it's probably too expensive.  I would be wary of GoPro clones as many either don't work as advertised or fail quickly (I have tried a few). If you go down that route, buy them from Amazon, as it's easy to return failed or sub-standard cameras.

 LastBoyScout 27 Feb 2020
In reply to Le Sapeur:

I use a Veho Muvi K2 NPNG.

Decent quality recording, but mainly because the battery life is very good (2.5-4 hours, depending on settings) and replaceable, so I can carry a spare and get longer for a day ride.

Can pick them up quite cheap on eBay. Comes with waterproof case and assorted mounts, but I use a K-Edge handlebar mount and looking for a decent saddle rail mount for the second one.

 JimR 27 Feb 2020
In reply to Le Sapeur:

I put the Fly 12 on flash which extend the battery life a bit. I don't use it for its light functionality. I use exposure sirius on the handlebar (keep spare in pocket as they only last about 3 hours on full beam) and exposure trace on helmet. I find I need full beam at night as most of my night riding is done on deserted country roads with potholes abounding. I've submitted about 10 close pass footage on the police reporting site so far.

 TobyA 27 Feb 2020
In reply to JimR:

>  I've submitted about 10 close pass footage on the police reporting site so far.

Do you know if anything happened as a result? I definitely see the point of having evidence if you are involved in an accident or similar, but I do wonder if video evidence of close passes and the like does much besides get viewed by other cyclists and make us all more stressed and angry.

I used to blog sometimes about cycle safety issues and the like that affected the city I lived in at the time, and used to think it was cathartic but now I wonder if it wasn't the opposite. I still see lousy driving around me when cycling, but I'm trying to be more zen about it, and that includes waving thanks to the majority of drivers who don't bully past me and who either wait a bit or give me loads of space when they overtake. I think this is better for my mental health than just yelling abuse and giving the finger to the minority of bad drivers.

 JimR 27 Feb 2020
In reply to TobyA:

I don't get stressed about it. 99.9% of drivers are fine. I just submit the report online and fully expect to hear nothing. I did submit one close pass from a driving school, where there was only one person in the car and clearly on a mobile phone. Hope something got done about that. I'm with you on acknowledging drivers and ignoring the idiots. I just submit the footage of the idiots ... even if it increases the number of incidents reported provoking an awareness camopaign, it'd be worth it.

 Bobling 27 Feb 2020
In reply to Le Sapeur:

A horrendous punishment pass on Halloween last year persuaded me to get cameras and I didn't have time or technical savvy to do a lot of research and set-up, so I just gritted my teeth and put a Cycliq 12 and 6 on the credit card.    I've been very pleased.  I think when I have more time and money I'd do as Jim R suggests and change the 12 to be a strobe/downward immediate road in front light and get another light for road further away light but the 12 works fine for the moment.  There is 0 maintenance/data management beyond charging them.

The most useful aspect for me is when something dodgy happens I can review it later and work out what I could have done better to avoid a similar situation in future, or did I do everything right and the driver was just a prat?  Having the rear camera is very helpful for this.

I don't think getting worked up about incidents at the time is at all helpful.  It distracts you from the fact that you are still on a road and trying to stay alive, and you are at the mercy of someone in possession of a potentially lethal weapon who might like to have another swing at you if you get all shouty at them.  Like others have said far better to focus your energy on thanking drivers who give you space and don't bully you, in the hope they will get a nice glow and do the same for someone else another time.

I've only reported one incident which was an absolute loon overtaking at 35 in a 20 zone, into oncoming traffic, over a pedestrian crossing on a blind corner, when I was signalling to turn left off the road.  The oncoming traffic has to emergency stop to avoid a collision which they managed with centimetres to spare.  The police (Avon and Somerset) got back to me within hours to say they would warm/fine/prosecute as appropriate which was nice to hear, but I've not been asked to go to court as a witness.  I'm unsure at the moment about whether reporting run of the mill "There really wasn't space to overtake there you numpty" is useful.

Two last things - "I am the unicorn of road justice!", this phrase has stuck in my head and stops me getting too self-righteous.

And this is one of my *favourite* close passes "Ford Ranger slides by in traffic" watch 10 seconds from 4.50 to end, Jesus they could not have been any closer to me, felt like I was swimming and a Great White Shark glided right past me smiling!   youtube.com/watch?v=6kqi4bm0vk8& 

Take it steady! 

 LastBoyScout 28 Feb 2020
In reply to TobyA:

I've submitted a number of incidents via the online reporting site.

Most are closed as "no action taken", on various pathetic grounds, but I've had a handful result in action - by which I mean the owners have been sent a letter about how to pass cyclists safely.

 nniff 29 Feb 2020
In reply to Le Sapeur:

So far, the Met has acted on all bar one of the clips I have submitted them, and I think the one that they did not act on was a computer system failure rather than an active decision.

This is Cycliq6 footage that the police acted on..Nothing to see until 2 minutes (rules need 2 minutes before and after)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GlMo_dlU5cQ&t=149s

Post edited at 13:04

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